Although they are less well known than the sparklers, Bouvet-Ladubay also produce a range of still wines, and the grands vins from amongst them are the Nonpareils cuvées. These infrequently-spotted efforts are bottled under the Anjou, Saumur-Champigny and Chinon appellations and, as evinced here, under the less stringent vin de table category too as necessary.
Bouvet-Ladubay Les Nonpareils M99 Expérimental (Vin de Table) NV: This is pure Cabernet Franc, from the 1999 vintage as hinted at by the M99 (millésime 1999) nomenclature. Low yields, about 30 hl/ha, temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel, élevage in oak, and clearly refused the agrément for the Anjou appellation, otherwise I don't have a wealth of information on this slightly mysterious cuvée. In the glass the wine has a moderately dense hue, with a dusty opacity to it. The nose certainly has a polished and modern, seductive appeal, the aromas of crushed and creamy summer fruit compote twisted with elements of coffee and honey, residual aromas of a heavy application of oak I think. It even has a little trace of coffee-chocolate to it, but thankfully this is very subtle. A very supple start to the palate, nicely composed, and fresh too, with a nice integration of components here. The fruit shows a nicely defined and gritty style, but through the middle and into the finish it all gives way to a rather bitter and domineering structure, with a woody feel to the tannins. Still rather grippy here, these tannins coating the mouth. This still needs time, but I note that there are some structural elements here that might not come around in a totally harmonious fashion. 15.5/20