by Florida Jim » Wed Dec 08, 2010 11:41 am
2009 Broc Cellars, Vine Starr:
13.1% alcohol; a blend of chardonnay, rousanne that had some skin-contact and picpoul; an angular but pleasing attack emphasizes the chardonnay, the mid-palate has some grip as the rousanne kicks in and the finish is a squeeze of lime that shows the lively nature of picpoul. A ladder in the mouth and one that breaks molds and is throughly enjoyable. Wine to have with or without food - but best if given a hour in the decanter and closer to room temp. About $20.
2009 Edmunds St. John, Rocks and Gravel:
13.8% alcohol; 50% syrah, 42% grenache, 8% mourvedre; SAVORY - that is the first, and lasting impression; there is some red fruit here (and more as it opens - boding well for its future) but mostly this is country ham, minerals, iron, marjoram and raw meat. Lots of grip, good cut, fine tannins and, at this point in its life, still a bit closed. But the stuff here is real; it was raised in cement tanks and never saw oak and if there is a better GSM made in this country, I haven’t tried it. About $24 - the ultimate no brainer.
2008 Edmunds St. John, Porphyry:
13% alcohol, grown on granite/quartz type soils, 100% gamay; slightly muted on the nose and holding some dissolved CO2 - I put this in a decanter and half an hour later it came out of its shell; firm, deep, dark yet still clearly gamay with concentration and a dry, lasting finish. A wine for your cellar or for your decanter to have with food. Less than $17/bottle by the case. Delicious.
2007 Edmunds St. John, Pinot Gris:
13.5% alcohol and about $10 on sale; when it was cold it was pleasant but little more; as it warms the spice (nutmeg, all spice, etc.) comes to the fore, the fruit opens and the texture takes on a fullness. This wine should be served at or above cellar temperature to get the flavors that are there and to find its character - otherwise, its just another $10 white.
N/V Tintero, Grangia:
Made from favorita grapes (related to vermentino?) and about 11.5% alcohol; quite clear in color, dry and spritzy with a sort of lemon grass, white pepper and pear flavor profile - but the sparkling nature of the wine is more prominent on the palate than the flavors. Meant to be refreshing more than character driven, I think, and pretty much pulls it off. From the Piedmont and about $9, retail. Very easy to drink.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars