The emphasis of my tastings this autumn has been very much biased towards France. I had to miss two big Italian tastings and one fine one from Spain for reasons of diary conflict, my son's and grand-daughter's visit and repairs of a major central heating leak.
So here is all I have been able to glean of estates from Italy, Austria and Western Australia where there are potential purchases. (I posted some notes of some Spaniards in the "Other Spain" Wine Focus.)
Monte Dall’Ora, Valpolicella
Yet another unfamiliar estate. The Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2006 (€18) was one of the finest I have had with lovely pure red fruit aromas, supple fruity body with lively acidity and good grip towards the finish for balance; it punched well up to the weight of this high price point for basic Valpolicella; 16/20. Amarone della Valpolicella 2005 (€46) has the promise of becoming the first of its type to convince with attractive kirsch notes and lively acidity and structure to stimulate the usual richness into something really interesting; possibly 16.5/20 in two or three years.
Nigl, Kremstal, Austria
I have given comprehensive and enthusiastic notes about the full range of this estate on two previous occasions, so I limited myself to the Rieslings this year. They were IMO served too cold for the full subtlety to emerge but showed similar fragrance, minerality, spicy notes and balance which I have admired before. I could detect no trace here of the burgeoning alcohol about which some people complain in top priced Austrian Riesling, though the excessive chill may have served to moderate any such impression. The prices are indeed somewhat discouraging, e.g. €35 for the dense, round, long, spicy and mineral Privat Riesling 2008; 16.5/20+++.
Rocky Gully & Frankland Estate, Western Australia
All the wines mentioned here except the first are from Frankland Estate, which is now certified organic. The estate was represented by Hunter Smith, Judi Cullam's son. This is a consistent favourite of mine and good QPR to boot. I must get myself an assorted case when in-house PO is not looking.
Rocky Gully Unwooded Chardonnay 2007 (€11) showed more personality than many of its kind with fresh fruit with lemon and lime notes and a touch of cream; 15/20.
Isolation Ridge and Cooladerry Vineyard 2007 Rieslings were on show (both €16) with the former being a bit closed with petrol notes, showing nerve, tension and crisp acidity and needing some more time for full expression and the latter being more accessible now with flowery aromas and greater suppleness; both 16/20++ now with + potential for Isolation.
Isolation Ridge Chardonnay could be compared in the 2009 and 2008 vintages (both €15); 2009 was quite complex and burnished with ingratiating white fruit, lively minerality and good back bone and 2008 was rounder, more integrated but a tad less lively; both 16/20+. (Compared with the unwooded Chard, these two make a strong case in favour of their use of large barrels which minimise the transfer of overt oak flavours to the wines.)
And finally Isolation Ridge Shiraz was available in the 2007 and 2004 vintages (both €17). Both were full/medium bodied but otherwise showed noticeable differences, the fruit on 2007 being close to tangy dark plum with lively acidity and mineral touches and the 2004 being closer to Northern Rhône but perhaps warmer and more generous with round cherry like fruit and good structure; both 16/20+.