My survey of this autumn's tastings continues with estates from the Rhône, Languedoc and Sud-Ouest where I am tempted to buy.
Domaine de Beaurenard, Châteauneuf du Pape ("CndP")
This is a reliable estate from which I regularly buy the Rasteau and sometimes a Châteauneuf du Pape. I liked the freshness, aromatics and minerality on the CndP blanc 2009 (€24) but the CndP 2006 (red) (€23) was still aromatically closed but one sensed the depth, structure and complexity. I buy the Rasteau (€12) in most years and the 2008 here was lighter than usual but showed pure fruit and aromas. Rasteau Les Argiles Bleues 2007 (€19) was also somewhat closed but the aromas showed refinement and the palate was powerful and structured; 16/20.
Bertrand Stehelin, Gigondas
This is another estate new to me and I liked a lot the two Gigondas shown (both Grenache 70%, Syrah and Mourvèdre and c. €15). 2006 showed attractively fresh aromas of raspberry and cassis and suppleness on the palate with a quite long and firm finish while 2007 was rounder, richer and more structured showing a touch of reduction and grilled meat in its aromas. I need to try these at home to confirm my good impression.
Domaine Belle & Fils, Crozes-Hermitage
I bought a few bottles of Crozes-Hermitage Les Pierrelles 2007 (€12) for early drinking because of its expressive steely cherry aromas and supple fruit accompanied by good grip; 15.5/20++. The other two Crozes and the one Saint-Joseph were higher priced and less ready showing more depth but quite closed. Both the Hermitage 2007 white and red (€44) showed depth and complexity but were adversely (for me) affected at present by wood particularly the former.
Domaine Elian da Ros, Côtes du Marmandais ("CdM")
This is a favourite estate of mine from the South West whose wines always punch well above the general weight of the CdM appellation; indeed IMHO Chante Coucou and Clos Bacquey are better than most St.Emilion GCs. Additionally Elian da Ros is articulate and very interesting in discussion. CdM Ce vin est une Fête 2008 (€8), from Merlot, Arbouriou and CabFranc, lives up to its name showing lovely pure red fruit aromas with a touch of grilled meat and supple medium weight palate with tangy fruit and minerals; 15.5/20++ QPR!! CdM Vignoble d’Elian 2008 (€11) from Cab Franc, Merlot and Syrah, was a touch closed and more rigorous than the previous with touches of leather and liquorice and a firmer and longer palate; 15.5/20+++ with some potential. CdM Clos Bacquey 2006 (€24) was opening up and was big, complex, with fine red fruit, leather hints and firm but well covered tannic structure; potentially 16.5/20++.
Clos Marie, Coteaux du Languedoc Pic Saint-Loup (“PSL”)
And this is one of my favourite estates from Languedoc. Languedoc Manon 2008 (W) (€15), from Grenache blanc & gris, Roussanne, Clairette and Macabeu, was an example of the fine results now being obtained from whites in the South showing an overlay of great freshness and minerality on the usual generous Mediterranean fruit; 15.5/20++. Of the four reds I always buy PSL L’Olivette (€12), GSM blend; 2008 shows dark plum with a touch of sweaty saddle and olive, lively acidity and minerals; 16/20 QPR. The three others, PSLs Simon 08, Metairies du Clos VV 08 both (€19) and Les Glorieuses 06 (€41) are Syrah/Grenache blends (but Metairies adds in 60% old Carignan) and see 1/3 new wood. They were less ready than L’Olivette but showed more depth and complexity with Metairies providing some tar and leather; all very promising for 16-17/20 in 2-3 years.