Continuing my overview of some recent tastings, I come to Alsace and the Loire heartland where we have been spoilt for choice this autumn. Not only have the following been on show, but also Deiss, Weinbach, Dirler-Cadé and Henry Pellé at the RVF Salon.
I go along with the view that 2008 has produced outstanding whites in Western and Northern France for those who like their whites full of minerals and tension but 2009 may be preferred by those who prefer fuller wines with sweeter and creamier fruit; 2007 seems to be in a similar vein to 2008 but a bit more supple and my manuscript notes are full of the words “mineral”, “tense” and “crisp” for wines from both vintages.
There were many excellent red 2008s as well in a savoury and finely acidic vein; I find the word “purity” cropping up quite often with reference to their fruit.
Alsace
Domaine Paul Ginglinger, Eguisheim
Very nice people at this estate and a good range too with the basic fairly dry Pinot blanc and Pinot Gris from 2009 (both <€10) showing a degree of richness well balanced by acidity. The three grands crus, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Gewurz, from 2008 (all €15) were on an appropriately higher plane with plenty of nerve and good QPR with my favourite being the dry Riesling grand cru Pfersigberg which was beautifully floral with deliciously moreish acidity, fine minerality and backbone; 16/20++.
Domaine René Muré, Rouffach
Muré is one of the few Alsatian producers who gives a dryness/sweetness indication; it takes the form here of an easy to understand cursor on a scale running from sec through demi-sec to moelleux. As in previous years I regret that they only showed one of their up-market wines. The reliable Côte de Rouffach négotiant range was shown in their Pinot Gris, Riesling 2008s and Gewurz 2009 (€12-14); the Riesling was fragrant, meaty and mineral but its finish was quite acidic. Riesling grand cru Clos Saint-Landelin 2008 (€23) was aromatically more closed with petrol hints and showed roundness, depth, complexity, a lot of minerality, tension and backbone together with crisp acidity needing to be tamed by more time; potentially 16.5/20++.
Domaine Meyer-Fonné, Katzenthal
As always good wines and good QPR here. The basic range of Gentil d’Alsace 09, Pinot blanc VV 09 and Riesling Félix Meyer 08 at between €8 and 9 represents excellent value. Riesling Pfoeller 2007 (€18) showed a definite plus with floral, mineral and petrol tinged aromatic and more depth, complexity and length than the basic; 16.5/20. Gewurztraminer grand cru Sporen 2008 (€23) added great freshness and backbone to the typical lychee and faded rose notes; 16.5/20.
Loire
Domaine des Roches Neuves, Saumur-Champigny, Thierry Germain
This is another fine estate whose wines have undergone a big transformation since the early part of the 00s. Formerly in a very ripe and big wooded style, the wines are now somewhat leaner, more tense and mineral with little obvious wood in their make-up. I love Saumur L’Insolite (W), made from Chenin, and this 2008 was one of the best with complex aromas of citrus and exotic fruit with spice and mouth-watering acidity combined with strong minerals, citrus fruit and some underpinning “gras” to form an excitingly tense whole; 16.5/20++. The three red Saumur-Champignys are excellent; I have already posted a TN on the robustly fruity basic 2008 (€9) elsewhere; Les Terres Chaudes 2008 (€16) showed more complex aromas with notes of leather and pencil shavings combined with great finesse, 16/20; whilst La Marginale 2006 (€25) was quite closed aromatically but showed the makings of a grand vin in its depth, complexity, length and finesse; in time 17/20.
Domaine François Chidaine, Montlouis-sur-Loire
The usual high standard from this estate. Touraine Sauvignon 2009, Vouvray Les Argiles 2008, Montlouis-s-L Clos du Breuil 2009 and Les Choisilles 2007 were as good as usual in styles consistent with their vintages. I pick out Montlouis-sur-Loire Brut (€13,70) which was wonderfully crisp and juicy with good foam and Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais 2008 (€20), with 8g/l of RS of which one is scarcely conscious, showing complex aromatics with mineral and honey notes and a quite full and rich palate which showed complexity, depth, crisp acidity and invigorating tension; 17/20.
Domaines de la Taille aux Loups & de la Butte, Jacky Blot, Touraine
I have given quite detailed tasting notes of the wines presented by Blot at the RVF’s Brussels Salon in another post. However, some different vintages were presented here. As expected the 2008s showed less richness and rather more freshness and tension than the 2009s; they are both excellent and it’s a matter of taste which one prefers; for me it’s on balance 2008 for the whites and 2009 for the reds. To give an idea on what semi-maturity would show in a red, Blot presented Bourgueil Mi-pente 2005 (€18), which was deeper, more structured and at the same time more supple at present than the 08s and 09s with in addition some nice leather notes; 16.5/20+++.
Two sweet Montlouis from 2003 were also shown and I was rather more convinced than by the 2005s shown at the Salon, admittedly tasted at a time when my palate was tired. For example, Montlouis-sur-Loire Romulus liquoreux 2003 (€71) was very honeyed with depth, complexity and some botrytis, I think, and enough freshness and minerality to avoid cloying; 16.5/20+++.
A few notes on the Rhône, Sud-Ouest and Languedoc come next.