Other than the RVF Salon and the Jadot importer, I have been rather slow in writing up several tastings which I have attended this autumn so I will limit myself to an overview by commenting only on certain wines from estates where I am considering buying (or have bought).
It has been interesting to compare the wines of 2009, 2008 and 2007, where possible. I go along with the view that 2008 has produced outstanding whites in Western and Northern France for those who like their whites full of minerals and tension but 2009 may be preferred by those who prefer fuller wines with sweeter and creamier fruit; 2007 seems to be in a similar vein to 2008 but a bit more supple and my manuscript notes are full of the words “mineral”, “tense” and “crisp” for wines from both vintages.
There were many excellent red 2008s as well in a savoury and finely acidic vein; I find the word “purity” cropping up quite often with reference to their fruit. I did get an opportunity to taste some barrel samples of 2009 clarets and found the experience less daunting than in most vintages with impressive substance covering the tannins and undigested wood better than usual; the most refined at this stage was Léoville-Barton.
Burgundy
Domaine de la Chapelle, Solutré-Pouilly, Pascal Rollet
This Mâconnais estate does not appear in my reference books, except Hachette, but I am impressed by the quality of its range on show here, which included Mâcon Solutré-Pouilly from 2008, attractively fruity and mineral, and 2009 (€10), richer and creamier; a Saint-Véran 2008(€13), more concentrated and refined, and four different Pouilly-Fuissé cuvées. I liked the whole range which l found crisp and invigorating and best of all was Pouilly-Fuissé Clos de la Chapelle 2008 (€27) which showed complex exotic aromas of white fruit, orange peel, muscat wound with flinty minerals and a quite full balanced and long burnished palate with nerve and backbone; 16.5/20.
Domaine Tremblay, Chablis
I wrote enthusiastically about these wines two years ago and again liked them a lot but did not find the big expected plus in purity and refinement compared the Mâconnais wines from the previous table; which is a tribute to Pascal Rollet. The Vieilles Vignes (€12) and the 1er cru Fourchaume (€18) from 2008 both showed fine minerality, tension and saline backbone but with the expected greater “gras” and refinement on the latter; 16/20++. Grand cru Vaudésir 2005 (€31) was richer, rounder, fruitier and softer; less Chablis perhaps, a vintage effect? 16/20.
Domaine Ghislaine & Jean-Hugues Goisot, Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre
Wines of remarkable purity and freshness together with impeccable QPR from this northerly estate (close to Chablis) ranging from the Bourgogne Aligoté 08 (€10) through two from Sauvignon de Saint-Bris (€11&14) and four Chardonnays 07 & 08 from different lieux-dits (€13-18) to a Pinot Noir 07 (€13). None, except perhaps the Pinot (a vintage effect?), showed the leanness and greenness which can characterise northerly wines and they all showed decent fleshiness and noticeable varietal, terroir and vintage differentiation. For example Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Gondonne 2008 (Chard) (€17) was fruity and exotic in its aromas (some pineapple) and saltier with more backbone on the palate, 16.5/20++ ; whilst Bourgogne Côtes d’Auxerre Gueule de Loup 2008 (Chard) (€18) showed floral and citrus aromas and a complex palate with marked flintiness and tension, 16.5/20++.
Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay
I had never before heard of this estate but I was impressed by the wines and by the enthusiastic young vigneron, who is a strong defender of the use of new wood with Pinot Noir (up to 40%). Marsannay rosé Fleur de Pinot 2006 (€18) was complex and mineral and quite lovely, which goes to rebuild some faith in pink after the pretentious goop from Esclans, 16/20+. There was a tense, mineral but fully priced (€23) Marsannay Charme aux Prètres 08 white – no better, if as good, as Goisot’s; a fine QPR, fruity and full Bourgogne rouge 09 (€10), two Marsannay 08 red lieux-dits, Clos du Roy & La Montagne which showed purer Pinot fruit (cherry), greater depth and the latter marked minerality. Finally Marsannay L’Ancestrale 2008 (€36) showed greater concentration, richness, minerality and length than the previous but also some undigested wood on the finish; 16.5/20++ if the wood integrates.
Domaine François Lumpp, Givry
This is a reliable and familiar estate. The three 2008 Givry 1ers crus presented, one white and two reds, were all excellent (all €21) with greater gras than the more northerly wines but retaining a very attractive focus, minerality and purity of fruit; all >16/20.
Domaine Olivier Merlin, Mâconnais
Immediately the different style of this estate was apparent. The wines showed more “gras” (roughly “fat flesh”) and less minerality and tension than the previous estates although they retained enough to provide interest; we talked about coming to Merlin to see “gras” and he good humouredly patted his well covered stomach. On the grounds of ?bringing out terroir?, he is an advocate of the use of new oak, which was not obtrusive here (though I have found it so in previous vintages) but which does, I think, contribute to a greater creaminess veering towards butter. This style of these wines is undoubtedly popular judging by the orders I saw being placed but is not what I prefer, though I would be happy to order them in a restaurant if my favourites were not available.
I think that I prefer, for their being less blowsy, his two from Mâcon (€14 & 22) and the basic Saint-Véran (€15) to the Saint-Véran Grand Buissière 08 (€22) and Pouilly-Fuissé Terroir de Vergisson 2008 (€23), the latter of which showed rich and creamy white fruit saved from flabbiness by some good minerality and lively acidity; 15.5/20. Merlin now ventures into the Côte d’Or and his Puligny-Montrachet 1er cru Sous les Puits 2008 (€40) stood out against his Mâconnais for its greater freshness, minerality and refinement; 16/20. On the other hand, I was unconvinced by his foray into Beaujolais where I found his two from Moulin-à-Vent unremarkable.
Alsace and Loire heartland come next.