WTN: 2000 Fombrauge (St. Emilion) - odd wine

[David M. Bueker]

Most of the time we worry about a wine's fruit giving out before its structure. That's not the case here. The structure is almost entirely gone, leaving something akin to dry, berry-flavored pancake syrup with a shot of alcohol. Very strange wine that has fallen off the balance cliff.

Most of the time we worry about a wine's fruit giving out before its structure. That's not the case here. The structure is almost entirely gone, leaving something akin to dry, berry-flavored pancake syrup with a shot of alcohol. Very strange wine that has fallen off the balance cliff.

Any hope for that structure re-emerging with time? That may seem to defy some natural laws but it happens with Burgundy. (Which leads one to believe that the structure doesn't disappear but rather hide).

Of course most wines aren't Burgundy.

[David M. Bueker]

I suppose one might pray for a miracle, but I would expect that this wine was designed* for lack of structure, thus making said miracle unlikely.

*I use that word intentionally.

Fair enough. I know we often think about wines falling apart over time. But then the Burgundy comparison came to mind.

Of course most wines aren't Burgundy.

And Fombrauge is less Burgundian than most!

Any hope for that structure re-emerging with time? That may seem to defy some natural laws but it happens with Burgundy. (Which leads one to believe that the structure doesn't disappear but rather hide).

The only things that give structure are acids and tannins, so if neither are left I'd say the wine is toast. Unusual, that. Must have been very soft and fruity when young.

With Burgs, I often think that the structure is simply concealed beneath youthful fruit and that when this dies down the whole thing snaps into focus again. Of course the most delightful thing about a given Burg may be the youthful fruit, so......

The only things that give structure are acids and tannins, so if neither are left I'd say the wine is toast.

With Burgs, I often think that the structure is simply concealed beneath youthful fruit and that when this dies down the whole thing snaps into focus again

Sure, that's the standard line. But the waves of perception can come and go many times. I.E. shut down Burgundies may appear to have lost their acid/tannin but the structure will re-emerge with more aging. I.E. it's not just a question of waiting for the youthful fruit to melt away. I don't understand it but I've seen it happen.

[David M. Bueker]

I've been following this wine since it was released, having bought a case on futures back when I didn't know what I was doing with Bordeaux (and had somewhat different tastes to boot). I have now opened 8 bottles of it, and it's gotten worse and worse each time. Once it was gutsy and lush, lots of fun. Now it's soft and flabby like a beanbag chair. It even leaves the little Styrofoam balls all over the floor.

David - I also had a disappointing 2000 Bordeaux recently. It was a Barde Haut that I enjoyed in its youth, but last week's bottle was all astringency and tannins. The fruit was barely perceptible, as were any other characteristics. Nothing joyful about it. I'm hoping it was an off bottle since I have a few more of them.