Consistent with the last bottle I opened a couple of months ago with David B. Very fresh, elegant and precise with Kabinett-like lightness and clarity, understated sweetness and a sense of real refreshment. Lovely and I am glad I have more.
1983 Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese
Another shitty cork to battle through, this one at least not as unyielding or painful as the one in the '83 Prum Badstube Auslese I opened last weekend (which was nastily corked). First impressions are a little worrying, rather monolithic with baked apple elements and little else for a few minutes, but it opens up and freshens up with some time in the decanter, developing bright pear and orange fruit with honeyed, herbal and smoky accents. There's nice acidity underneath, but it feels a bit light on the back end and starts to fade and become thinner with prolonged air. Certainly enjoyable if not profound, no complaints for a bargain Acker auction buy.
2009 Noëlla Morantin Gamay Touraine La Boudinerie
As some are aware, Clos Roche Blanche is downsizing and the growers are parting with some of their land/vines. Sob.
I was intrigued to see what was being made with the vines in new hands, and picked this up for $18 from CSW. Clos Roche Blanche it ain't. Started out a bit reductive (under real cork), but after a couple of hours it became more enjoyable with bright red fruits and a stalky/herbal edge. With a couple of days in the fridge it develops a bit further as some nice violet/other floral tinges emerge, but the whole package never goes beyond just being pleasant and solid, certainly a long way from the sheer joie de vivre and vibrancy of CRB's Gamay. Decent enough, but at the price it's easy to do a whole lot better.
2009 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #10
Rather unyielding initially, just showing the bright fruit of a Mosel Spätlese and plenty of acid underneath. A couple of hours of air and this transforms. Beautiful aromas; floral, faintly nutty, briny and full of pure Mosel fruit and slate, and a palate that's damn near electric with amazing tension and energy. Stunning.
