by R Cabrera » Mon Nov 29, 2010 4:31 pm
The latest venture by Tom Collichio of Top Chef fame, Riverpark Restaurant is on the ground floor of a building that overlooks the East River with a sweeping view of Queens, and to be precise, Long Island City. A spur-of-the-moment decision to call and we were offered a table albeit at 6:00 pm. A 15-minute trek in the cool, crisp night and there we were. Btw, one will have to keep a keen look out, even if going there on foot, as it’s easy to miss.
The wine list said 2001, but a couple of minutes later, our very industrious waitress came by to inform us that they only have the 2002 … and that the 2001 was never available. I accepted, as I didn’t want to have to review the wine list. We just want food and beverage, as soon as available, please! The wine was classic LdH, earthy, very acidic, and sour cherries. There was wood, underbrush and confection on the nose. It was young, brutally tannic, and very savory. Some fresh red fruit emerged with some time in the glass, but it was difficult to overcome the harsh tannin. Lot’s of wood. B
As for the restaurant, unlike his Craft restaurant with the big wooden tables, Riverpark was modern, sleek, and had a more pleasant ambiance than Craft. Some soft-sounding, techno-rock music played in the background, but at some point I hear the Isley Brothers (go figure). Excellent pretzel-like, dense and chewy complimentary bread (B+). My appetizer of braised Octopus served in clams and light broth was tender and delectable (A-). My entrée of Rack of Lamb, 2 large portions, smoky flavor and was perfectly done (B+). Excellent Goat Cheese Cake dessert, a la panna cotta, with pistachio and fresh fig sauce (A).
Ramon Cabrera