WTN: Frederic Esmonin Ruchottes-Chambertin 1999

Open and ready for business, this elegantly wrought and seductive pinot reveals a maturing but healthy browning dark red colour, plenty of sap in the bouquet over deep set plum and cherry fruit with some quality savoury oak and sous bois as lingering top notes. The palate delivers a sleek entry through the fore- to mid-palate with most attractive silky red and dark berry fruit with the gradual incorporation of very fine, lacy tannins and zippy acidity in a relatively authoritative but well balanced, lengthy finish. A feminine and graceful Grand Cru Gevrey with a healthy drinking window from now until 2020. 91 points from me tonight. Somewhat enigmatic but most enjoyable all the same.