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WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

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Dale Williams

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WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by Dale Williams » Fri Nov 19, 2010 9:55 am

Matt got together a group with the loose theme of "70s Bordeaux" last night. Some food glitches, but an enjoyable night with good company.

starters (thanks Jay)
1997 Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Smaragd (I missed vineyard)
Started out as solid, full, and a bit foursquare, without a lot of GV character, but tasty. The character appeared in spades with air, all green pea and white pepper. Very nice. B+/A-

1985 Drouhin "Les Clos" Chablis GC
A perplexing wine, though one person loved and a couple hated. Deep color, at first nose is heavy with the cheese and oxidative notes, but the palate is soft, full, and friendly. With air nose brightened, lost the cheesiness, and reminded me of old Tondonia. At end I quite liked the nose, but then it felt like palate had lost its freshness. I think I never hit the magical moment of nose/palate synergy. B/B-

1975 Pape Clement
Red fruit, tobacco, pencil lead, oveley (don't know what that means, but looks like what I wrote). Least tannic '75 I've run across. B

1970 Figeac
Very different, big sweet fruit, a little lifted, lots of ferric notes. Some herby notes. Just a hint of roasted note made worry re storage , but retasted 2 hours later I liked it much more than initially. When poured, B/B+, later one of my faves

1971 Giscours
Sweet berry fruits, more acid than tannic backbone, cedar. Lovely mature Margaux. B+

1975 Palmer
Sweet fruit, some tannins sticking out, but nowhere near as tannic as hard as nails bottle I had last month. Solid, and I might have enjoyed more if it had come with the meat.

1970 Mouton-Rothschild
I've had this a couple of times before, and this is best bottle (Matt said same thing). Big exotic nose of mocha, herbs, and mushrooms. Lush on palate, quite nice. B+/A-

1970 Leoville Las Cases
This had some pretty solid fruit, but seemed a little pedestrian/dull next to its flightmate. I told someone that I'd have been thrilled if it was a Gloria or Langoa-Barton, but for a super-second a bit disappointing. B

1975 Haut Brion
Quite divisive wine. My wine of the night by a hair, I found quite typical, with plenty of cedar, tobacco, and earth. Just some hard 1975 tannins kept it from being outstanding, others liked much less. A-/B+

1978 Latour
Broad shouldered, lots of cassis, pencil shavings, earth. I voted for HB but thing this was table WOTN. A-/B+

2003 Lafaurie Peyraugey
Dense, apricots, orange marmalade, intense, but could use some more acid. B/B+

Good group of folks, and Morton's at least has the advantage of being close to Grand Central.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Salil

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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by Salil » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:02 am

Nice lineup, though you really seem to be looking hard for positives re. Morton's. ;)

I'm pretty sure the GV would have been the Loibner Weingarten, Crush brought in some of that some time ago (had a bottle some time back and it's lovely). Thanks for the notes, good read as always.
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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by Jacques Levy » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:24 am

You are doing the rounds this week, Dale. Good for you.

I liked the 1975 Pape Clement the few times I had it. It is probably my favorite 1975 Bordeaux, even though too much oveley gets me cranky.
I have always had a soft spot for the 1978 Latour, some bottles of this wine have been fantastic, others less so.
How was the grub at Morton's? The last time I went to a steakhouse in the city, we tried Keen's and loved the porterhouse there. But we eat steak so seldom these days.

See you soon.
Best Regards

Jacques
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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by Michael K » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:38 am

Thanks for the notes. Nice to live vicariously through your notes :) !
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R Cabrera

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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by R Cabrera » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:51 am

Good notes Dale. Thanks.

With regards to the food at Morton's, as far as I can recall with about 3 prior dinners/tasting at Morton’s, it’s the first time that the food glitch occurred with this tasting group. Primary glitch last night was overdone steaks for some, and one underdone lamb chop dish. To their credit, Morton’s quickly rectified by going around asking us to cut through meats and inspecting. Without much hullabaloo, they took out incorrectly-cooked dishes and had fresh ones done correctly and served.

Last night was the first time that I had the porterhouse, and this was in lieu of the bone-in filet that I had always ordered during the prior times. Although I finished my steak (my excuse: very light lunch, just came from a tough physical therapy session and was really hungry last night), next time I go back, it'll be back to the bone-in filet. I liked my Wedged lettuce with blue cheese and bacon salad, though.
Last edited by R Cabrera on Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by Dale Williams » Fri Nov 19, 2010 10:53 am

Jacques Levy wrote:How was the grub at Morton's? The last time I went to a steakhouse in the city, we tried Keen's and loved the porterhouse there. But we eat steak so seldom these days..


My take on Morton's has generally been steaks are ok to good (wet-aged, and I prefer dry), some cuts are better than others (I like the bone-in filet), sides are standard but good, appetizers are hard to pair with red but ok. Last night several people had to send back overcooked meat, one order of the hash brown type was undercooked, and I can't say tuna tartare will be ordered again by me. But they are nice re wine glasses, and as I said convenient for me.
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Matt Richman

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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by Matt Richman » Sat Nov 20, 2010 11:51 am

'70'S NIGHT AT MORTON'S (BORDEAUX) - Morton's NYC (11/18/2010)

  • 1970 Château Figeac - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
    Creamy with lots of coffee, some syrup, cedar. Lots of iron and iodine. Fresh and acidic. Dense. Nice.
    B+
  • 1975 Château Pape Clément - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Light with a woody sweetness. Herbs and some good dark fruit. Still lively. Soft for a 1975.
    B
  • 1971 Château Giscours - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
    Woody, cedar. High acidity. Bright. Not tired but not fruity either. Bit of menthol, herb, iron. Time to drink these I'd say.
    B
  • 1975 Château Palmer - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
    A bit angular with nice soft warm fruit. Broad with herbs and wood. Long acidic finish. Sharp tannins. This certainly had the 1975 tannic profile, but with some very nice fruit too. Surprisingly the remains of this bottle were very nice on day 2.
    B
  • 1970 Château Léoville Las Cases - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
    Nice fruit, tannins a bit stiff. Good minty herb a bit of espresso.
    B+
  • 1970 Château Mouton Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Round and sweet with warm fruit. Soft and friendly. A bit of coffee. Some acidic structure that is well integrated, not overwhelming. Herb, mint. Very nice. Drinking well, not fading. I've had this wine four or five times and have never had a good bottle before, in fact several times the wine has been undrinkable/flawed. This bottle was wonderful. I have one left and have hopes that it will be as good as this one. My #2 of the night.
    A-
  • 1975 Château Haut-Brion - France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
    Coffee , menthol, band-aid. Friendly and round for a '75. Some acidic tannins. Fresh, herbal, complex with a distinctly Haut Brion profile. Plenty of life left. My #3 of the night.
    A-
  • 1978 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Soft and herbal. Very well integrated, seamless in fact. Everything working together wonderfully. A treat and my WOTN.
    A
  • 2003 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
    Thick, big, sweet with a lot of botrytis. Caramel starting to form. Buttery with medium low acid level. Huge, will outlive us all. Drinking very young now, but enjoyable.
    A--

WOTN
Latour (14)
Mouton (12)
Haut Brion (6)
Giscours (2)
Posted from CellarTracker
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Bill Spohn

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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by Bill Spohn » Sat Nov 20, 2010 7:50 pm

Either you guys lucked out and got the bottle of 70 Las Cases that got all the fruit the other bottles were supposed to get, or you are far more generous than I am. I love Las Cases generally, but I have never been able to bring myself to enjoy this still hard angular lean wine. The 71 Giscours sounds well into decline - you guys are too kind! One can admire the wine for what it once was, though.

The 70 Mouton is about the norm - it is getting a little variable now.

The Figeac is indeed still quite good - if you liked that one, try the 82 some time! I like the 75 Haut Brion and the 78 Latour quite a lot as well.
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R Cabrera

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Re: WTN: 1970s Bordeaux at Morton's

by R Cabrera » Sat Nov 20, 2010 9:43 pm

I was also enthused with the 70 LLC. My pda batteries went out during the dinner and I decided to forego taking notes, and hence have no formal notes to share. As I echo what I mentioned during the dinner, that the 1st Growths seemed to have distanced themselves in this tasting, I would have been happy to have everything else in my cellar, the Giscours included. Iirc, it (Giscours) was quite fresh and it was good.
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