Châteaux Rauzan-Ségla and Canon
The Wertheimer family owns both these châteaux. I started with Rauzan-Ségla and when I commented that the Canon seemed soft and cloying by comparison, the presenter told me that I was taking them the wrong way round.
Ségla Margaux 2006, second wine made from young vines the majority of which are Merlot. This seems almost ready for drinking with aromas of rose and grilled meat, medium body and supple fruit with decent structure; 15.5/20.
Château Rauzan-Ségla 2ème grand cru Margaux, CabSauv 55%, Merlot 40%, CabFranc and PV.
2007 was showing well for lean year. Refined raspberry and violet aromas, light/medium body, very pretty fruit and light but perceptible tannic structure; 16/20 for early drinking.
2003 showed similar refined raspberry and violet aromas with much more body, ripeness and roundness, reasonable tannic structure but also that vintage’s hallmark candied notes; at its peak, I think, 16/20.
Clos Canon Saint-Émilion 2006, a second wine 100% Merlot, was soft and ingratiating almost soggy seeming after the Médoc rigour; recalibrating my palate 15/20++.
Château Canon Saint-Émilion grand cru, Merlot 75%, CabFranc 25%.
2007 was more complex than the previous but just as flattering with medium/light body, supple red fruit and touches of marzipan; 15.5/20++ without much scope for improvement.
2006 was aromatically somewhat closed, medium/full bodied with good roundness of fruit, grilled meat touches and good structure; not ready but I guess potentially 16.5/20+.
Château Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Médoc
Tough work tasting here. With food it would have been easier.
La Demoiselle de Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc 2008, made from Merlot and CabSauv 50/50, was fruity and supple and quite approachable with discreet tannins; 15.5/20.
Château Sociando-Mallet Haut-Médoc, generally CabSauv 55%, Merlot 40%, CabFranc 5% and 100% new oak ageing.
2008 showed full body, impressive fruit, substance and tannic structure. A rigorous wine in need of substantial ageing . I guess potentially 17/20.
1996 was still not fully open aromatically but notes of black currant were coming out on swirling against a background which seemed a touch oxidative after the youth of the 08. The palate was medium/full bodied, quite long but still quite tight but with aromas beginning to flesh out. I have a dozen of this and feel no pressure to open one other from intellectual curiosity; 15.5/20 now but I guess potentially 17/20.
Cuvée Jean Gautreau 1998, a limited edition with more Cabernet Sauvignon and longer oak ageing, seemed like a more open version of the 96 with black currant notes more pronounced and a supplement of distinction (more Cab?); 16/20 now and I guess potentially 17/20+.
Château Climens, Barsac
Cyprès de Climens Barsac 2007 was open aromatically and very fine and elegant, only medium/light bodied but showing reasonable depth and very subtle fruit and botrytis; 16.5/20+++.
Château Climens 1er cru Barsac 2006 was more massive but quite subdued aromatically showing a lot of rich and quite oily complexity but much less expressive right now than the previous which benefited from a more favourable vintage; 16/20 now with ? potential.
Not Bordeaux but irresistible –
Clos des Lambrays grand cru 2006 – Domaine Clos des Lambrays. Even a young Burgundy like this is a balm after tannic young and middle aged Médoc. The nose added fine minerals to rich and structured Pinot fruit and the medium/full bodied palate was remarkable in its depth and richness, suave feel, great length and firm ripe tannins; potentially a great bottle at 18/20+.
Côte Rôtie Blonde du Seigneur 2007 – Domaine Georges Vernay showed a lovely exuberant nose which notes of bright cherry, ivy and graphite and a medium bodied palate was structured long and elegant; 16/20+ already and, I guess, potentially 17.5/20+.