WTN: A nice Bordeaux for a change

Ch. Vieux Pourret 2005 - 13,5% abv; Grand Cru St.-Émilion
This is a biodynamic wine, 80% Merlot and 20% Franc. I didn't approach this with great hopes: there is some connection to Tardieu-Laurent, whose wines I have rarely received any pleasure from, it is made in an area that I am disillusioned with and is mostly from the least interesting grape grown there and it is higher in alcohol than those old-style wines from there that I like.

But unlike with other Bordeaux I have recently tried, I could actually sense that this is made from grapes rather than from wood. I have no idea how much oak this sees, but I do remember the importer saying that it is not even half of the wine. It is, of course, ripe and dark; but it is also earthy and deliciously refreshing/herbaceous or whatever the currently favoured euphemism is for that delightful, greenish aroma of traditional Bordeaux. Crisp, refreshing and dangerously moreish (when has that last been said about a Bordeaux?); palate-cleansing tannins. Delightful already though young. The only typically Bordelais problem with this wine is its price of c.35€.

Otto, Hi...


Agreed with your comments about the wine but when I found it at the Union Square Cafe in New York the wine set me back a rather uncomfortable US$145.

Best
Rogov

For once, some place is more expensive than Finland!

I tried looking for notes on this wine but not many were available. Perhaps you might post your impressions on it, too?

Agreed with your comments about the wine but when I found it at the Union Square Cafe in New York the wine set me back a rather uncomfortable US$145.

Unbelievable how Union Square Cafe would charge that much for a $17 wine ... unless I'm mistaken and you ordered a 3.0 liter bottle. They do (did) have the $10 corkage, fyi.

Otto, Hi....

I'm very possibly the only person you will ever know who writes tasting notes of wines even at picnics*. My tasting note for the wine in question follows.

Best
Rogov

Chateau Vieux Pourret, St.-Emilion, 2005: The first winery in St.-Emilion to go biodynamic but one does wonder as the vineyards of this artisinal winery are directly bordered upon by others that rely on traditional methods and thus not fully isolated from "external influences". At any rate, a medium- to full-bodied, gently tannic wine with only a bare and tantalizing trace of spicy oak. A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, on first attack ripe black fruits and freshly cut herbs, those followed by notes of wild berries. Generous alcohol here but that in fine balance with the fruits, wood and tannins. Approachable and enjoyable now but best from 2014-2020. Score 91. (Tasted but not blind 19 Dec 2009)

*Anticipating a question: Tasting notes made at picnics are merely for my own reference and are never published.

Unbelievable how Union Square Cafe would charge that much for a $17 wine ... unless I'm mistaken and you ordered a 3.0 liter bottle. They do (did) have the $10 corkage, fyi.

Agreed that most wines at Union Square Cafe are priced within reason as is their corkage fee reasonable. My own policy when bringing several bottles is to always order one from the wine list as well. In our case we were six for dinner and had brought three other Bordeaux reds with us. We ordered this because it was highly touted at the restaurant as "an unusual artisinal Bordeaux available only in very limited quantities". As to the markup - the retail price was then unknown to me. Making a guess - perhaps a miscalculation on the part of the restaurant for a wine not ordinarily on their wine list.

Best
Rogov

$17? Unbelievable. Some European sites I looked at were from 22-25€, so 35€ in Alko from the special order selection seems in tune with the European prices I saw.

$17? Unbelievable. Some European sites I looked at were from 22-25€, so 35€ in Alko from the special order selection seems in tune with the European prices I saw.

Actually, according to winesearcher pro, $17.99 today from a store in California. What's Alko?

Agreed that most wines at Union Square Cafe are priced within reason as is their corkage fee reasonable. My own policy when bringing several bottles is to always order one from the wine list as well. In our case we were six for dinner and had brought three other Bordeaux reds with us. We ordered this because it was highly touted at the restaurant as "an unusual artisinal Bordeaux available only in very limited quantities". As to the markup - the retail price was then unknown to me. Making a guess - perhaps a miscalculation on the part of the restaurant for a wine not ordinarily on their wine list.

I've found wine list pricing by Danny Meyer restaurants that I've been to here in NYC, including Eleven Madison Park, The Modern/Bar Room, Blue Smoke and even Shake Shack, to price their wines nicely-competitive by NYC standards. The price on this wine is shockingly obscene.