Domaine Guffens-Heynen (“G-H”) , Maison Verget (“V”) & Château des Tourettes (“CT” - in the Luberon)
I have had intermittent experience of V with mixed results but none of Guffens’ own estates in the Mâconnais and Luberon. The wines were presented by the ebullient Jean-Marie Guffens, his wife (Germaine Heynen) and his Mâconnais estate manager (name missed). I was interested to learn that it was partly frustration with their inability to buy plots in Burgundy (part of their G-H estate is leased) which led them to invest in the Luberon. As most people probably know, V buys in grapes and J-M Guffens makes the wines; he lays down no strict specifications for V’s suppliers. I was not bothered by over-oaking which some people allege, I found the V wines much more consistent than I remembered (perhaps carefully chosen, though) and the G-H domaine wines made me understand the hype.
Mâcon Villages Grand-Élevage 2009 – V (€9) was rich with an exotic touch, nice minerals and good balancing acidity; 15.5/20.
Chablis Cuvée des 20 ans 2009 – V (€9) showed quite a lot of atypically Côte d’Or type roundness and “gras” (vintage effect?) but also good minerality; 15.5/20+.
Chablis 1er cru Côte de Lechet 2009 – V (€14) was similar to the previous but richer with enough acidity to balance that; 15.5/20++.
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er cru Morgeot 2009 – V (€32,50) showed some full exotic fruit with good tension, grip, minerality and welcome low level of butter and cream; 16/20.
Bien Entendu Vin de Pays du Vaucluse Chardonnay 2009 – CT (€10) was more generous, perfumed and meaty than the Burgundies with good acid freshness and structure; a nice wine; 15.5/20+.
Mâcon-Pierreclos Le Chavigne 2009 – G-H (€21) seemed to represent a noticeable step-up compared with the V négociant wines. There were complex aromas of exotic fruit and the palate was full, fruity, mineral and long; 16/20++.
Pouilly-Fuissé 2009 – G-H (€35), though the estate’s entry level P-F, was bigger, fuller and richer than the previous with fine minerality, lively acidity and excellent length; 17/20. I am curious to know what extra the more up-market crus can provide.
Les Fils de René Quénard – Chignin, Savoie
Warning: there are several different Chignin estates with the Quénard family name. Savoie is a region whose wines have always appealed to me and this Quénard estate confirms that. I wish that I could get them more easily. This branch of the Quénard had no Belgian representation but I hope that RVF’s show will have changed that.
Chignin blanc La Maréchale 2008 (€6), made from the Jacquère grape, was deliciously fresh and fruity with lovely crisp mouth-watering acidity; 15.5/20++ QPR!!.
Chignin-Bergeron La Bergonelle 2008 – W – (€10), made from Roussanne, was rounder, more polished and complex than the previous with more lively acidity and minerality than I recall from Rhône valley examples of this grape; 16/20 QPR!.
Chignin-Bergeron La Cigale 2008 – W – (€12), made from Roussanne and aged in old foudres, was more exotic in flavour and more velvety than the previous whilst keeping good minerality; 16/20 QPR.
Mondeuse cru Chignin 2008 – R – (€7). The Mondeuse grape is said to be related to Refosco from Friuli and I can see some resemblance. This was medium/light, beautifully fruity and tangy with invigorating ivy notes; a Beaujolais substitute with a character of its own; 16/20 QPR!!!
Pinot Noir cru Chignin 2008 (€7) was medium weight, firm, meaty and tangy; a nice wine without much varietal typicity; 15/20+.
. It's surprising that they need a Belgian importer if Taittinger are looking after the marketing. I wonder if the distinguished elderly lady at the stand was Madame Taittinger.