Fonterenza – Montalcino
I did a follow-up visit to the winery yesterday, largely to collect some wine: six magnums of the 2004 Brunello Riserva, and a case each of the 2007 Lupo IGT (Cabernet Sauvignon) that I wrote up last time and the 2008 Rosso did Montalcino.
While I was there, we did a quick tasting of most of the wines yet to be released, starting with the 2010s which have just finished (or are finishing) their malos. If these wines are any indication, 2010 is going to be another great year in Tuscany. Again, these are notes based on my impressions.
2010 Rosato – As good as the 2009 was, I think this is better. It already seems in perfect balance with just enough acidity and tannin to provide some structure, lovely (mostly) red fruits and a nice finish. This is a real wine to be taken on its own merits; it is not a watered down version of something else. There is also none of the slightly sour quality I notice in many ambitious rose wines. Very Good+, arguably Excellent for the type
2010 Rosso di Montalcino – Remarkably delicious and complete for such a young wine. Seems really well balanced and the tannins seem fully mature. Should develop into an excellent bottle.
2010 Brunello di Montalcino – Clearly the big brother of the Rosso. Bigger flavors, more tannins. Essentially similar but with the volume turned up. Again exceptional balance. I think this is going to be a Brunello that tastes exceptionally good at every point in its development. Probably Outstanding.
We re-tasted the 2008s and 2009s and I stand by my original notes. The 2008 Brunello has developed a rather crunchy quality with big fruit but also quite prominent tannins; it seems like a more traditional style of Brunello in that it will need a few years to really show at its best. The 2009 Brunello has a very strong cherry flavor which is lovely but slightly different to the fruit in other years. I would rate the 2008 as Excellent and the 2009 as Excellent+ but both could easily move up a notch as they develop.
I also took the opportunity to try the 2004 Brunello at Le Logge, my favorite restaurant in Siena. My wife and I agreed that the only word that did justice to the wine was “delicious”. It’s perfectly balanced with lots of fruit, not too much structure, not too much alcohol but mouth filling with exceptional length and no off notes at all. Just an excellent, excellent bottle of wine. There was no work in drinking this wine. One of the best Brunellos I have had in a long, long time. The quality of this wine is what prompted me to make the effort to go get the magnums of the 2004 Riserva so I can see how they develop over the next several years.
This winery is beginning to be noticed by other wine writers. Their 2005 Brunello was the top Brunello in the annual Decanter tasting of Brunellos.