Côtes du Rhône – Syrah- 1996 – Domaine des Grands Devers, René Sinard – Alc.13%.
About a year ago I wrote an enthusiastic TN about an elegantly lovely CDRV Valréas 96 from this estate located toward the northerly limit of Southern Rhône.
This simple CDR was perhaps even better in a similar vein. Colour was quite pale. The nose was sublimely fragrant with fine complex fruit aromas, particularly cherry and black currant, mingled with a touch of olive and mineral (12 hours later the heeltaps smell even more complex). The body was only light/medium in weight, acidity was lively, there was a steely touch to the fruit complementing the fine aromas and shape on the palate was nearly perfect entering quietly, expanding and deepening leading to a gentle crescendo towards the finish followed by a long diminuendo. This was in a similar class to simple CDRs from Fonsalette and Coudoulet de Beaucastel but much lighter, more elegant and refined; perhaps not for those who insist on CDR being full-blooded and robust; for me 17/20.
If you are attracted by this description, let me tantalise you by passing on a warning to avoid wines made at this estate since René Sinard’s retirement in the late 90s. The Sinard fan club here in Belgium claims that his successors, la famille Bouchard, have changed style and are making banal wines.