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Learning about the Right Bank - Ch. Magdelaine 1983

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Paul Savage

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Learning about the Right Bank - Ch. Magdelaine 1983

by Paul Savage » Sat Oct 30, 2010 12:39 am

Late in life, I am learning something about the Right Bank! From Robert Parker's "Bordeaux" book, I find out that Magdelaine is one of the esteemed vineyards in the "cotes" section of St. Emilion, where the soil is predominantly limestone. Top vineyards in this area of St. Emilion include Ausone, Canon, Magdelaine, L'Arrosee, Pavie and L'Angelus. (The other principal area of St. Emilion, near Pomerol, has soil which is more clay and gravel, and includes properties like Cheval Blanc, La Dominique, and Figeac). The book goes to some length describing the differing styles of these wines, and gives invaluable information about the vintages and individual properties. For instance, I find out that Magdelaine has the highest proportion of Merlot in St. Emilion, up to 90%, and I think it is that, that has created in this wine flavors and character that I have not previously encountered in any Bordeaux!

A supple, subtle, restrained, and refined style. The tannins have melted away. Good depth, and a fascinating flavor - rather "intellectual" in style and not at all big or plush. Some may not find it all that impressive actually, but I opened this 6 hours early, took out a small taste to enlarge the surface area to silver-dollar size, to give it the Audouze slow-O treatment (with no decanting), and later carefully adjusted the serving temperature up and down using a small picnic bag with one of those gel-filled "freezer blocks" inside. Wines with some age and excellent character deserve this sort of careful treatment, as it can be tricky to bring out their very best!

Parker says (in the 2003, 4th edition of "Bordeaux") that Magdelaine is a rare, traditionally-made St. Emilion that needs a lot of cellaring. That has certainly worked in this case!

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