by Robin Garr » Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:43 pm
Mike, I sent you this by E-mail, but since you've posted here, I'll copy in an unformatted text version of this Columbus Road Trip column by Ron Johnson that ran in <I>Food & Dining Louisville</i> last year. It's fairly recent, so I assume that most of these references should still be valid.
<b>Road Trips: Columbus</b>
A wise man – or maybe it was a wise guy - once said that the buckeye is a useless nut. The Capital of the Buckeye State, however is far from useless or nutty when it comes to quality dining options. Kentuckians looking for a weekend getaway often overlook Columbus. But it’s only 100 miles beyond Cincinnati, and the scant 3 ½-hour drive should put it on any list that includes Nashville and St. Louis as weekend destinations.
Much like Louisville, Columbus has invested heavily in urban renewal in recent years. The results are immediately evident. The downtown corridor is built on a grid with large office buildings, swank hotels, and retail stores. While there is fine dining to be had in this area, it is largely geared toward the expense account crowds who frequent places like Morton’s Steakhouse. Exceptions include the Flat Iron Bar and Grill and the restaurants located in the Arena District, a gentrified section of downtown that surrounds the newly built downtown home of the Columbus Blue Jackets hockey team. The Flat Iron gets its name from the building in which it occupies the ground floor, built as a replica of the famous triangular tower in downtown Manhattan. The Flat Iron’s Bourbon and Scotch list is extraordinary, and the sandwiches are legend among downtown lunch-goers.
In the Arena District, hockey fans and concert-goers can enjoy a pre-game meal or post-game libations at a number of restaurants and bars. Barley’s Alehouse No. 1 is the spot for serious beer connoisseurs. A selection of ever changing seasonal brews is offered from the comfortable oak bar. Pub grub dominates the menu, highlighted by fried sauerkraut balls. O’Shaughnessy’s Public House will be familiar territory for Irish Rover regulars. This Irish pub and restaurant is all woodwork and stained glass. Young professionals dominate the after-work scene, and it fills with Blue Jackets fans before and after games. Irish staples such as fish and chips, corned beef hash, and a twist on Welsh rabbit are consistently well-made.
For those more interested in dining amid German cultural heritage or architecturally significant homes, Columbus boasts two eclectic and diverse neighborhoods. The German Village and the Short North neighborhood bookend the downtown corridor on the south and north sides, respectively. Both neighborhoods offer quality dining options in price ranges suited for all pocketbooks.
The Short North is just that; a short walk north of downtown Columbus. A large wrought-iron arch over the street marks the entrance to the neighborhood. Art galleries, boutique clothing stores, and warmly lighted restaurants fill every block, and folks of all ages stroll the sidewalks around them. Rigsby’s Kitchen is a welcoming restaurant and bar populated by locals and tourists alike. The main dining room is sleek and modern with exposed brick walls and tall ceilings that give an industrial feel. The front room houses a long marble bar, the open kitchen and a massive picture window showcasing the action on High Street. The Ciccheti Menu features Venetian-style small snacks like fried sardines and shrimp bruschetta that are natural compliments to the well-crafted cocktails.
Almost directly across the street is the Burgundy Room, a local favorite for after-work diversions. This wine bar smartly offers upwards of 25 tapas-style appetizers to savor with the 92 wines offered by the glass. The dark and cozy atmosphere only adds to the experience, and wine-savvy servers are happy to guide guests through the massive wine list.
Those looking for a less cosmopolitan but equally fine dining experience will appreciate the down-home goodness of the Press Grill. It’s no wonder that journalists seek oasis in this clean, well-lighted place, and not just for the generously poured cocktails. The menu is full of home-cooked favorites, including hearty soups and sandwiches. Free bar food is set out for patrons throughout the evening, often including a number of fried delicacies. The tin bar and narrow, old-fashioned shotgun style building evokes Louisville’s Germantown institutions.
The hidden secret of Columbus dining is a secret no more, but it remains hidden. Basi Italia is a tiny restaurant located in a restored carriage house off an alley between Hubbard and Buttles Streets in Short North. Its hard-to-find location has insured its local-only status, but tourists are treated like gold by the friendly and skilled waitstaff. The open kitchen hums with energy serving dishes like pan-roasted clams with micro-greens and Chef Matthew Hite’s specialty of roasted half chicken in a sauce of grapes and chive oil.
Cuisine Francaise is on the menu at L’Antibes. There one can find all the familiar French favorites served in a setting fit for special occasions and romantic meetings. The hushed and polished service matches the subdued and classic décor. Those who relish classic preparations of lamb loin, pheasant, and beef filet will feel right at home.
Barcelona is not the restaurant that one might expect to find in the heart of the German Village. The neighborhood located to the south of downtown is known for its meticulously maintained German heritage, but at Barcelona diners find exciting cuisine fusing Mediterranean and Asian styles and ingredients.
Plank’s Bier Garten sports a name more befitting the neighborhood, but few would guess that it is also the local hot spot for good pizza. Thurman Café is long on ambience but short on seats. This spot for great burgers is popular among locals, so plan a visit during off-peak hours. Katzinger’s Delicatessen serves up a authentic deli-experience that can be hard to find in Louisville. Sandwiches are noteworthy for high quality meats and heights that exceed the size of one’s mouth.
Perhaps it is not the first city that comes to the mind of a Louisvillian looking for a weekend get-away, but for those seeking something besides Cincinnati or Indianapolis, Columbus offers a wealth of great dining destinations. With its restored old neighborhoods, revitalized downtown, and quality dining scene, Columbus proves that the Buckeye State is home to a lot more than a useless nut.
