Sometimes dreams come true ..

Between 2002 and 2006 I was cruising the beautiful 'Wachau' region (close to Vienna) and the wine cellars of the best producers there almost every year - celebrating the lightness of being. I've been enjoying the best wines from such splendid producers like Knoll, Hirtzberger, Prager and Högl. But I had growing concerns about the alcohol level of the best wines going up and up (well beyond 14%). The majority of Wachau wines produced between 2001 and 2008 don't have enough fruit and concentration in my view to balance 14% of alcohol (or more), and most of them don't really improve with aging. What should a Wachau fan do in such a desperate situation? Time will tell? Indeed, sometimes problems get resolved not as you would expect it:

2009 Prager Riesling Smaragd 'Ried Klaus', Weissenkirchen/Wachau
Everything seems to be different with this wine: the highest alcohol level (14.5% alc. ) - but also the best alcohol integration - I have ever seen with a Prager Riesling. Nice fresh nose of wet rock, smoke and peaches. Powerful, deep, classic Riesling fruit with very ripe and aromatic acidity (not that simplistic steelyness often seen with Wachau Riesling). Very long and fruity on the finish. What a success for Prager! My personel rating: 18/20. Imagine, even the cork - normally being more or less stinky - was smelling of peaches..

[David M. Bueker]

Glad it worked out!

I have similar concerns regarding alcohol in the top Austrian wines (and not just from the Wachau). The 2006 F.X. Pichler wines have been ok, but only if served a little too cold.

Glad it worked out!

I have similar concerns regarding alcohol in the top Austrian wines (and not just from the Wachau). The 2006 F.X. Pichler wines have been ok, but only if served a little too cold.

I agree, but if you serve much too cold it makes the wine tasting bitter (according to my experience).

[David M. Bueker]

Unfortunately true, so there's really no good answer.

Unfortunately true, so there's really no good answer.

What about sticking to Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune Riesling instead?

[David M. Bueker]

Unfortunately true, so there's really no good answer.

What about sticking to Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune Riesling instead?

I'm glad you can afford it.

Unfortunately true, so there's really no good answer.

What about sticking to Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune Riesling instead?

I'm glad you can afford it.

The truth is, I'm owning only 4 bottles of it. But my dear friend David (from Switzerland) - who usually buys the whole CSH harvest - is not too far away

Unfortunately true, so there's really no good answer.

Leitz Alte Reben trockens?

[David M. Bueker]

Unfortunately true, so there's really no good answer.

Leitz Alte Reben trockens?

Some of those breach 14% as well, and are the worse for it.

As for CSH, I have 6 bottles, but it is unlikely I will ever buy more.

I agree, alcohol levels in Austrian whites can be a problem. Most growers seemed such slaves to the 'it must be dry' mentality that's so prevelant in Austria (and Germany). I kept thinking that if they left a bit more RS, it would bring the alcohol levels down a bit, and maybe leave a better balanced wine. Herr Hirsch was one of the few winemakers who wasn't afraid to leave some RS in his wines. But overall, the local market want dry wines, and that's what they are going to get!

I agree, alcohol levels in Austrian whites can be a problem. Most growers seemed such slaves to the 'it must be dry' mentality that's so prevelant in Austria (and Germany). I kept thinking that if they left a bit more RS, it would bring the alcohol levels down a bit, and maybe leave a better balanced wine. Herr Hirsch was one of the few winemakers who wasn't afraid to leave some RS in his wines. But overall, the local market want dry wines, and that's what they are going to get!

John, I agree with you from a general point of view. But I haven't seen so far lots of successful wines from Austria having residual sugar. Did you?

The problem is, there isn't much made, and not much of that finds its way to other countries. Besides Hirsch's wines (especially his reislings), I'd add some of Proidl's wines. He mentioned that when his fermentations stopped, he never re-started them (unlike many or most other wineries), so some of his wines had amazing levels of RS, yet still managed to finish fairly dry. But Proidl's wine are hard to find outside of Austria.

None of the Wachau producers can - or seem to want to - allow more RS, as I think the limit in their most recent appellation rules is a maximum of 10g/l of RS.

[David M. Bueker]

Since when are Hirsch's wines not trocken? I've been buying them for years & they are certainly labeled as such. Taste that way too.

They aren't off dry but any means, but often have more RS than other Kamptal wines - depending on the vintage, of course. But he expressly stated to me in a visit last year that he wasn't as strident with RS levels as many of his colleagues. Proidl in the Kremstal was even less concerned about RS, and indeed directly questioned the ultra-dry style so in vogue now.

[David M. Bueker]

Perhaps, but he is still labeling trocken, so there's not much RS in any event.

I agree, alcohol levels in Austrian whites can be a problem. Most growers seemed such slaves to the 'it must be dry' mentality that's so prevelant in Austria (and Germany). I kept thinking that if they left a bit more RS, it would bring the alcohol levels down a bit, and maybe leave a better balanced wine. Herr Hirsch was one of the few winemakers who wasn't afraid to leave some RS in his wines. But overall, the local market want dry wines, and that's what they are going to get!

Here are two Wachau whites with residual sugar that I really like:

2005 Prager Riesling 'Ried Klaus' (13% alc.)
There's a nice tasting note from David on this > viewtopic.php?f=3&t=26931

2006 Högl Riesling 'Ried Bruck' Reserve (13% alc.)
"Made from the best Riesling grapes I've ever harvested", Josef Högl told me when Albino, Andrea and I visited his winery in April 2007.
Albino (sweet wine lover) described this appropriately when we tasted it from steel tank: "This has the terroir expression and minerality of a Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel from Germany but it's not sweet enough for me" . I couldn't agree more with him, but I don't have an issue this wine's sweetness. In my view it's just perfectly harmonious as it is.

Cheers,
Rainer