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Little brother is watching you ..

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Rainer from CH

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Little brother is watching you ..

by Rainer from CH » Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:40 pm

2006 Pendits Tokaji Aszú Essencia (high class sweet wine from Hungary)
270 g/l residual sugar according to Márta. Bright yellow. How can a sweet wine of this magnitude demonstrate such extraordinary freshness and subtlety?
Tasting notes taken after 3 days of airing: In the nose there is scent of fresh air after snowfall, must from Tokaji grapes, green tea, tang, ripe yellow plums, perfect kiwi fruits and pineapple. Here you're tasting 100% nature and 0% winemaking. Why does it never saturate me? Because of this incredibly aromatic acidity which recalls experiences I had with Egon Müller Riesling wines from Germany. My personel rating: 18+/20. The only problem of this absolutely beautiful wine is the fact that it has a brother of otherwordly dimensions - the 2003 Pendits Tokaji Aszú Essencia.

Cheers,
Rainer
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by Jenise » Wed Oct 27, 2010 2:18 pm

Rainer, educate me. Or, I should say, re-educate. I think I know that in Tokajis 'essencia' is a designation with meaning--is it equal to or above the highest puttonyos?
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by Rahsaan » Wed Oct 27, 2010 2:23 pm

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Rainer from CH

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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by Rainer from CH » Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:27 pm

Jenise wrote:Rainer, educate me. Or, I should say, re-educate. I think I know that in Tokajis 'essencia' is a designation with meaning--is it equal to or above the highest puttonyos?


Hi Denise, your assumption goes into the right direction. 'Aszú Eszencia' does actually mean 'Aszú 7 puttonyos' (having at least 180g of residual sugar per liter) while 'Eszencia' is pure nectar (at least 450g of residual sugar per liter) having no or minimal alcohol. Does this help? Cheers, Rainer
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David from Switzerland

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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by David from Switzerland » Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:41 pm

Rainer from CH wrote:Because of this incredibly aromatic acidity which recalls experiences I had with Egon Müller Riesling wines from Germany. My personel rating: 18+/20.


Of course, the acidity isn't merely aromatic, it's simply higher than in most comparable AEs, which gives it additional youthful cut (and makes it seem more precise than the 2003, which ultimately, it isn't). We may be underestimating this, but it's never easy to tell if such high-acid vintages aren't best in their electric, racy youth...?

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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Victorwine

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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by Victorwine » Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:50 pm

Technical this really isn’t wine (it doesn’t meet the alcohol requirements). Rainer's description- “Here you are tasting 100% nature and 0% winemaking” is very fitting. To me it would be like drinking the very best “Sussreserve”.

Salute
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by David from Switzerland » Sun Oct 31, 2010 1:01 pm

Victorwine wrote:Technical this really isn’t wine (it doesn’t meet the alcohol requirements). Rainer's description- “Here you are tasting 100% nature and 0% winemaking” is very fitting. To me it would be like drinking the very best “Sussreserve”.


This is not what Rainer meant, however: Aszú-Eszencia, technically speaking, is wine (the requirements correspond to that of a theoretical 7 Puttonyos - a category that doesn't exist as such) - it's not the same as Eszencia or Nektár (the pure, free-run juice that often enough doesn't ferment, thus is sometimes referred to as "not wine", which is why it is being compared, nomen est omen, to honey). Basically the name says it all: "Aszú" ("broken out", that is, made from selected dry/botrytised berries, same word as German "Ausbruch" as in e.g. Rust in the Austrian Neusiedlersee region) on the label means the product contained therein is, technically speaking as well as subjectively, wine.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by Victorwine » Sun Oct 31, 2010 2:22 pm

Thanks David. So Tokaji Aszú Essencia is not the same as Essencia. Theoretically a Tokaji Aszú Essencia would be blending 7 Puttonyos to a given volume of dry white wine or juice made from "healthy” grapes. (Or just back sweetening a given volume of dry wine produced from “healthy” grapes with a given volume of the Essencia juice). What’s the alcohol content listed on the label of the 2006 Pendits Tokaji Aszú Essencia?

Salute
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by David from Switzerland » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:04 pm

Victorwine wrote:Thanks David. So Tokaji Aszú Essencia is not the same as Essencia. Theoretically a Tokaji Aszú Essencia would be blending 7 Puttonyos to a given volume of dry white wine or juice made from "healthy” grapes. (Or just back sweetening a given volume of dry wine produced from “healthy” grapes with a given volume of the Essencia juice). What’s the alcohol content listed on the label of the 2006 Pendits Tokaji Aszú Essencia?


Actually, I have never seen a labelled bottle of it - I've only tasted sample bottles that Márta Wille-Baumkauff brought along. Traditionally, producers used to try and achieve 12% in their Aszús, but I doubt Márta's 2006 AE ever reached that mark (no use of cultured yeasts, all spontaneous fermentation, so a wine is going to reach the alcohol level it "wants to" - that is, among other, what Rainer meant referring to the natural winemaking here, worth noting perhaps that Tokaj Pendits is now bio-dynamically farmed).

Historically speaking, by the way, AE was something like the winemaker's special selection of a particularly successful 6 Puttonyos uplifted by the addition of some pure Eszencia, hence the name Aszú-Eszencia (= Aszú with the addition of Eszencia - an extremely noble version of "back-sweetening" a dessert wine already sweeter than e.g. Sauternes!), the best he could offer in a top vintage, so to speak. Today, of course, thanks to the concentration achieved at top wineries, an Aszú sporting 180 g/l residual sugar is not per se exceptional. Top vintners agree, however, that AE isn't AE unless it's qualitatively exceptional, in other words, the sweetness alone won't (or rather: shouldn't!) do.

An no, Aszú is never made from a finished dry wine with the addition of Eszencia - that wouldn't be economically viable (there's only 0.14 litre of free-run juice per 100 kilos of dry berries, but hectolitres of must or dry wine made from "healthy"/un-botrytised grapes). Instead, Aszú berries (botrytised/shrivelled dry berries, as in German TBA, if not drier than there) are being added to fermenting Szamorodni-style must (or finished dry wine, an inferior but less risky method applied during the Socialist era, but only a handful of modern wineries - maybe this is what you heard or read of, e.g. Royal Tokaj Wine Company?), which is then pressed after maceration.

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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Last edited by David from Switzerland on Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by David M. Bueker » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:09 pm

Hey David - congratulations on the 8-ball championship!
Decisions are made by those who show up
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by David from Switzerland » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:19 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Hey David - congratulations on the 8-ball championship!


How come...?! Some mutual friend told you? Not used to anyone in the "wine community" knowing much about about my other hobbies. But thanks so much! European Champion is a truly a step up from the more usual (somewhat - still hoping to win more of those, of course) national titles. 8) This one will be hard to top! :wink:

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by David M. Bueker » Sun Oct 31, 2010 6:22 pm

Thor posted about it on Disorder. That was a mighty big trophy. Planning to fill it with Clos Ste Hune?
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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by David from Switzerland » Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:00 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:Thor posted about it on Disorder. That was a mighty big trophy. Planning to fill it with Clos Ste Hune?


He did? Missed it... Recently or long time ago? Thanks for letting me know! I'll try and find it. As to filling it with CSH (Rainer suggested 1990, and his assistance in draining it), the lid won't come off... :wink:

Greetings from Switzerland, David.
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„J'ai gâché vingt ans de mes plus belles années au billard. Si c'était à refaire, je recommencerais.“ – Roger Conti
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Rahsaan

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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by Rahsaan » Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:47 pm

David from Switzerland wrote:He did? Missed it... Recently or long time ago? Thanks for letting me know! I'll try and find it.


http://winedisorder.com/comment/56/4384/
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Victorwine

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Re: Little brother is watching you ..

by Victorwine » Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:22 pm

Thanks again David from Switzerland, and congrats!

Salute

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