I will confess here that Blanc de Blancs Champagne is not my favored style. I usually much prefer the richness and complexity that Pinot Noir brings to a blend. There are some all-Chardonnay Champagnes, however, that force me to reevaluate that stance---or at least provide outstanding exceptions to it--- and yesterday I found two of those side by side.
Duval-Leroy Brut Vintage Clos des Bouveries Champagne 2004 is one, a 100% Chardonnay from a plot ideally placed mid-slope overlooking the village of Vertus. The Chardonnay is partially barrel-fermented for added richness and body, and this provides an intriguing, seductive combination of light, bright citrus and mingled with distinct floral notes---think fresh spring fruit tree blossoms---on an explosive, foamy base. The tasting was done in regular, rather than flute glasses, and the creamy mousse was quite a pleasant surprise when it hit the palate!
Henriot Souverain 'Pur Chardonnay' Champagne NV, on the other hand, is a precise pointillist version of Blanc de Blancs, primarily from vineyards in the Cote des Blancs, with a brisk crystalline structure and tantalizing aromas and flavors of mint, lemon verbena, and crisp apple, resting on an elegant and creamy base of pinpoint bubbles. Aged for three to five years, it has a surprising long elegant finish, unusual in a Chardonnay Champagne. And although a Blanc de Blancs, you can safely pull this one out for your full-flavored foods: bring on the salmon and capers, the foie gras, the lobster rolls, because this Champagne can handle them with grace and style to spare.
And if you ever have the opportunity, visit Reims and take a tour of the magnificent Les Crayeres, Henriot's famous cellars 60 feet underground in the chalk banks of Champagne, originally quarried by the Romans. It's a lovely and memorable experience. Make a magnificent day of it by adding the glorious Cathedral and lunching at Boyer's Les Crayeres (a restaurant and luxury hotel, not a cave) that will satisfy all your culinary cravings.
The Henriot Pur Chardonnay also qualifies as something of a bargain---in the grand marque Champagne sense, at least---and is a worthwhile investment for a special holiday gathering. It makes for wonderful celebration and splendid festivity.
