My friend Izak Litwar from Denmark and I went to visit three Right Bank vineyards yesterday on the eve of the 2010 harvest. I say the eve because many estates had not even started picking, whereas the harvest is well under way in the Médoc.
After working our way through the usual traffic snarls when leaving Bordeaux, we arrived mid-morning to visit Jean-Luc Thunevin in Saint-Emilion. Of course, I had heard much about his wines, and not all of this was favorable… Robert Parker called him the “bad boy” of Bordeaux, and damned if Thunevin didn’t pick up on that and name one of his wines just that! Interestingly, it has become a big commercial success (with quantities varying from 60 to 100,000 bottles a year). Anyway, Thunevin is both a producer and a négociant. We tasted through a range of his wines at his wine bar in the center of Saint-Emilion. His wife is in charge of making wines from their vineyards and those under contract since the 2008 vintage.
2008 Bad Boy: fine color, brambly, simple, direct nose of above-average distinction. Minty, crushed blackcurrant leaf flavor. Short, but good. 100% Merlot. According to Thunevin, aged in 100% new oak. Expensive for its appellation (“basic” Saint-Emilion), but clearly above most in that category. First wine. Note of 13.5/14 out of 20 given without retasting.
2008 Domaine des Sabines: This recent acquisition (4 hectares) is in Lalande de Pomerol. Sweet, oaky, fruit-forward nose. Starts out rather one dimensional going into very puckery fruit with plenty of fresh acidity. Finishes more on the sweet and rich side. Round. 100% Merlot. Uncomplicated and enjoyable. 14/20.
2008 Ch. Beau-Père: this estate was previously called after the owner with the unfortunate name of Ratouin. It is located in the “René” sector of Pomerol. Beau-père means father-in-law. I mentioned Parker’s wine “Beaux-Frères”, and Thunevin actually had a bottle for sale in his shop for the bagatelle of 85 euros. The 2008 Beau-Père was a little less dark than the two previous wines. Very classy nose, even if more charming than deep. Very full-bodied on the palate, but finishes unexpectedly acidic. Dryness on the finish. Too much oak. 14/20.
2009 Ch. Beau-Père : extraordinarily dark color. Candied fruit and a smoky quality on the nose. Quite rich on the palate with chocolate overtones. Although the wine starts out quite smooth, it goes into a hard finish with too much oak. However it is somewhat redeemed by an attractive Merlot gumminess. 14.5/20.
2008 Virginie de Valandraud: This is one of those “it’s a second wine that’s not really a second wine” wines… In fact, Thunevin’s second wine is called, perversely, “3”!. Make of this what you will... We were told that Virginie comes from a specific 4-hectare plot. The 08 has a fine color with a lively, lilting, subtle nose showing coffee/vanilla hints. Seductive, fresh aromas of berries on a bush (meaning there is some greenness there). A well-made, well-structured, chewy wine with depth and richness. Medium-weight, but sad to say that familiar oakiness creeps in on the end to upset the balance. It’s this oak rather than any “modern” or “extracted” aspect of the wine I find hard to cope with. Still, 14/20.
2008 Clos Badon: This is a 6.5 hectare Saint-Emilion Grand Cru estate located near Pavie. 100% Merlot. Pure, fresh bouquet with coffee overtones. Can’t help but like it. What used to be called a donut wine in my younger days i.e. with a hole in the middle palate. However, there’s a very seductive side as well. Unfortunately, this is also something both dilute and spirity about it as well an there’s a dry, dry, dry finish. 13/20.
2009 Clos Badon is considerably better with a super nose that reminded me of nothing so much as fruitcake and candy. Thick, rich, and mouthfilling on the palate with blackberry coulis flavors. On the negative side, a bit obvious and a little hot on the finish, like many wines from this region in 2009. 14.5/20.
2008 and 2009 Bellevue de Tayac: This AOC Margaux estate located in Soussans was acquired by Thunevin in 2005 and his first vintage was in 2006. He is building a new cellar there. Without going into detail, let us say that the wines I tasted showed that there is some way to go to bring Bellevue de Tayac up to the standard of the Right Bank wines.
2008 Valandraud: This is Thunevin’s flagship wine. He produces about 12,000 bottles a year. The 2008 was extremely dark in color with a fine, up-front nose. It develops beautifully on the palate. There is a spirity side, but it is not hot either. Fascinating. My notes say “a wine with balls, and plenty of class”. Long, tarry aftertaste. Unusual balance. An aftertaste reminiscent of green tea. Not the monster I expected. 16.5/20.
2009 Valandrad : black in colour. Very primary, exhuberent fruit on the nose. Like the best sort of kirsch without noticeable alcohol. Massive on the palate, but under control. Mystifying. 17/20.
We finished with two white Saint-Emilions entitled to the Bordeaux appellation (Fombrauge and Teyssier make one, and Von Neipperg is going to make one… from Chardonnay although it will surely be marketed as a vin de table). The first white wine we tasted is called “number 2”, but will be sold as “Virginie” in the future. It is made from half and half Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. It retails for 29 euros a bottle. It is good enough, but lacks the originality and luster of its red counterpart. The “Number One” is much more interesting with a great finish, but at 99 euros is not especially good value for money.
Best regards,
Alex R.