WTN: Zweigelt

It wasn't a completely beer dominated weekend after all. I saw a new vintage of an old, moderately priced favourite, so I couldn't resist buying one. And I couldn't resist opening it either.

Weingut Bründlmayer Zweigelt 2008 12,5%; just under 14€

Since the 2004 I've been trying to put into words why I like this wine so much. The closest I can come to is to say that it is fun in a very serious kind of way. Full of boisterous, almost Bojo-like fruit, but mixed with dark and brooding, peppery, almost Syrah-like aromas. And this strange but lovely mix follows on the palate: fruit that wears its heart on its sleeve and crisp tannins - a mix of fun and brooding. A seriously depressed comedian of a wine.

Have you tried the Nigl Zweigelt? It's super tasty!

I've had the Bründlmayer Grüner Veltliner Lamm (we had it on the winelist of a restaurant I used to work at) and it was great. I'll have to keep my eye out for their Zweigelt!

Joy, I can't remember if I have. I have tasted a range of their wines, but my memory fails me with this wine.

The Lamm can be great - as is, indeed, most of their lineup.

I find the Austrians, as long as they go easy on the oak, are making some superb reds. It's such a shame, however, that many producers seem to like oak very much.

Otto,

I agree. Heavy oak does not do Austrian, or many Central European (e.g. Hungarian) wines, any favours. There isn't the "fatness" in these wines -- as there might be in a Zinfandel for example -- to carry all that oak.

The best Austrian reds, to my palate, have that vivacious peppery spice, crisp (but not sour) acidity, and grippy tannins. Those are my favourites!