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WTN: Truchot goes through the Mill

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David M. Bueker

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WTN: Truchot goes through the Mill

by David M. Bueker » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:35 am

Dinner last night at "The Mill at 2T" in Tariffville, CT. I have now eaten there twice, and would rank it in the top handful of restaurants in Connecticut.

1999 J. Lassalle Champagne Cuvée Angeline
Thank to Spencer for this wine Bright, refreshing and amply fruity in a precise apple and tart citrus sort of way. I like this quite a bit. It's too bad we didn't really have any food with it (other than the quite tasty popovers, but the Champagne deserved more).

With Spaghetti “Carbonara” - Hand Made Spaghetti, Parma Prosciutto, English Peas and Manchego Toast
1997 Nigl Riesling Privat
Crushed stones that have been thrown under the salamander for a few moments to caramelize. It did have an element of mid-palate richness that paired well with the hint of spiciness (from sriracha) that was in the spaghetti. Loved the dish and the wine.

With Wagyu Flat Iron Steak, Oversized Corn Ravioli, Bacon Foam
2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Gevrey-Chambertin
Fresh cherry and a slight herbal perfume - very balanced with a finishing meatiness that played off the Waygu (though the bacon foam, while more like a cream had me thinking Cote Rotie) and was a pleasing if not mind-altering start to the Truchot portion of the evening.

With Braised Beef Short Ribs Young Farm’s Polenta, Cippolini Tapenade
2004 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes
2005 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes

Ifyou could combine the aromatic complexity of the '04 with the palate presence and deth of the '05 you might be able to cure cancer, bring peace to the Middle-East and erase the US government debt. The '04 was beguiling in terms of swirling aromatic nuances (fruit, herb, leather, earth, meat, even a touch a cedar) yet when stacked up against the depth of the '05 it paled just a little bit. The '05 (double decanted when I was checking for TCA prior to dinner - also done to the two Sorbes wines) took more time to come out of its aromatic shell, but the rich, balanced fruit and loamy earth character on the palate was wonderful & aptly matched the dish.

With Prosciutto Wrapped Pork Tenderloin with George’s Banks Scallops, Truffle and Pork Belly Potato Hash, Spaghetti Squash
2005 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos Sorbes Vieilles Vignes
2006 Domaine Truchot-Martin Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Sorbes Vieilles Vignes

Food wise I was flagging by this point despite the excellence of the execution. Short ribs (the prior dish) always kill me, so I had some of this dish, but took much of it home. I did eat the hash, and preictably the light truffle element was a fantastic partner to the wines. The '05 Sorbes was an even more complex, but also more imposing (if one can use that word about Truchot) version of the Morey St. Denis Vieilles Vignes . Both the '05 and the '06 (the "I'm not totally retired" wine from Jacky Truchot) became more expressive with every moment of air. In fact it was something like 4 hours after I had double decanted at home that we got to these two wines. The '06 remained tight until just before dessert, when it finally unveiled some of its potentially gorgeous charms. The '05 Sorbes was for me the WOTN, the depth paired with nuance, the extra element of complexity over the '05 M-S-D VV. I will admitthat I kept revisiting the two '04s, as the aromatics just kept pulling me in. Both gained weight throghout the evening.

With Apple Fritters with Caramel and Bourbon Ice Cream note that some candied bacon was drizzled on the ice cream - wow!
2006 Carl Schmitt-Wagner Longuicher Maximiner Herrenberg Riesling Beerenauslese
Thanks to Salil for this bottle. Wine and dessert are often a tough match, but this came pretty close to working. The fritters on their own were not too sweet, so they played nicely off the apple and spice elements in the wine. I kept a good distance between the wine and the ice cream, though a touch of the candied bacon with the wine was intriguing. The BA was extremely well balanced and not overpowering/sugary (some producers would call it an auslese or perhaps auslese gold capsule). Not a lot of complexity yet, but if one has any in the cellar (shockingly I do not) that will come.

At this point I had to be rolled home. Oof - lots of great wine and great food.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Truchot goes through the Mill

by Rahsaan » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:43 am

Nice to hear about a couple of 2005s showing well. That should make a lot of people happy.
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Re: WTN: Truchot goes through the Mill

by Salil » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:48 am

That was a fantastic evening and quite the lineup of wine. Thank you again for opening those wines (and thanks to Spencer for the Champagne, which I really enjoyed).

I thought the Nigl was drinking beautifully with a seamless combination of developed fruit, smoky and earthy flavours over a bed of stone. Very elegant, understated wine that offered just about everything I would want in an older dry Riesling.

Onto the Truchots... as a whole, that was a tremendous set of wines, all very distinctive and singular with that Truchot sense of lightness, balance and amazing aromatic profiles as a common theme. The aromatics on the '04 MSD VV were absolutely spectacular. Transcendental. The '05 Clos Sorbes was perhaps my favourite of the night (a very hard call, as the '06 got really lovely after some time, and I had a hard time moving away from the fragrance of the '04 MSD VV) with incredible depth, layers and a textural finesse that was Musigny-esque.

Really enjoyed the BA at the end of the night, and what really stood out for me was that it seemed to really extend and intensify the flavours of lower-pradikat Schmitt-Wagner Herrenberg wines, rather than being an outright botrytis dessert wine - really remarkable, especially for an '06.
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Robert Dentice

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Re: WTN: Truchot goes through the Mill

by Robert Dentice » Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:01 pm

What is the story on the 2006 Truchot?
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Truchot goes through the Mill

by David M. Bueker » Fri Oct 01, 2010 12:02 pm

He made something like 2 barrels of wine from the small section of Sorbes that is near the house (shown on the label). Apparently 1 barrel worth came to the USA through his usual distribution. As far as I know it's all long gone now. I believe Maureen Nelson bought it all. :wink:
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Re: WTN: Truchot goes through the Mill

by Robert Dentice » Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:54 pm

David M. Bueker wrote:He made something like 2 barrels of wine from the small section of Sorbes that is near the house (shown on the label). Apparently 1 barrel worth came to the USA through his usual distribution. As far as I know it's all long gone now. I believe Maureen Nelson bought it all. :wink:


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