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WTN: Five Italian Wines

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Andrew Bair

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WTN: Five Italian Wines

by Andrew Bair » Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:11 pm

While I just joined this board a couple of weeks ago, I will definitely be posting a lot more notes on Italian wines in the time to come, since Italy is one of my favorite wine-producing countries. I really enjoy the diversity of grapes and terroirs that Italy offers, and enjoy many different wines from all over Italy, not only from Piedmont and/or Tuscany.

These are some Italian wines from the past month.


2009 Giuseppe Cortese Barbera d’Alba

This was opened the day before I tasted it. Fresh, moderate in weight, with integrated tannins and acidity; dominated by bright cherry, red fruit, and blueberry flavors. Very good.

2009 Cantina Cincinnato Castore IGT Lazio
Made entirely from the Bellone grape, which is apparently best known as a permitted ingredient in Velletri Bianco – a wine that I have never actually seen. Greenish-yellow color. Lightly spiced tropical fruit nose. Medium-bodied, somewhat fleshy, with steely acidity. Bone dry, with flavors of white peaches, citrus fruit, herbs, and white pepper. Has a slightly bready note on the finish. At $12, a very good QPR.

2006 Podere le Boncie (Giovanna Morganti) Chianti Classico Le Trame

Mostly Sangiovese, with a bit of Foglia Tonda, a rare Tuscan grape. Medium-bodied, nicely balanced, with dusty tannins and good underlying acidity. Nicely mineral, with sour cherry and berry notes accented by earth, smoke, and a hint of leather. An excellent classical Chianti.

2005 Roagna Dolcetto d’Alba
Moderately full, elegant, and nicely balanced; unusually for a Dolcetto, there is a fair amount of structure here, and not all of the tannin has completely integrated yet. Still, it is quite drinkable now, with aromas/flavors of dark berries, plums, dried earth, and mint. While I normally drink Dolcettos within 4-5 years, this wine can certainly last longer. At $14, a great QPR red.

1996 Fattoria Ambra Carmignano Riserva Elzana
90% Sangiovese/10% Cabernet Sauvignon; Elzana is the name of the cru. Nose of dark berries, leather, venison, and spices. Full, broad, and well-balanced, with good underlying acidity and well-integrated oak. Shows notes of cherries, dried clay, bay leaves, tobacco, grilling spices, and eucalyptus. Some drying tannin on the finish. This wine persuasively argues that the more internationally-styled Italian wines can age well, at least in some cases, even if I tend to favor more traditionally made wines.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: WTN: Five Italian Wines

by David M. Bueker » Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:16 pm

Very nice notes Andrew. Great addition to the breadth of Italian wine info here (we don't spend enough time on Italy here on the RLDG "Riesling Lovers Discussion Group").
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Re: WTN: Five Italian Wines

by James Roscoe » Mon Sep 27, 2010 9:46 pm

I did my part!

Welcome Andrew. Nice notes and good job. I know there are some Italian wine lovers out there. (Are you reading this Mark?) Perhaps some of them can start a little clique of Dolcetto and Barbaresco geekdom notes. Lord knows they would be welcome.
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Re: WTN: Five Italian Wines

by Jenise » Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:54 am

Welcome Andrew, glad to see you posting away, it's much appreciated. Interesting note on the Ambra--like you, I prefer more traditional wines. But I would add that I find it hard to figure out where the international styles are going to go--which creates another reason to avoid them.
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Oliver McCrum

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Re: WTN: Five Italian Wines

by Oliver McCrum » Fri Oct 01, 2010 1:57 am

Good notes.

I should point out that Carmignano has included Cabernet for ages, unlike say Chianti Classico or ahem, Brunello, so you could still say 'international' but at least not 'trendy and new.'
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Mark S

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Re: WTN: Five Italian Wines

by Mark S » Sat Oct 02, 2010 10:00 pm

Yeah James, I'm here, and a welcome to Andrew who finally found his way here after leaving the dead-to-me-board!
That Ambra had a lot of age on it. Was that a recent purchase? I last had one from the late 80's when I think I found it pleasant (didn't take constant notes back then, so going on memory here).
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Andrew Bair

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Re: WTN: Five Italian Wines

by Andrew Bair » Mon Oct 04, 2010 6:46 pm

Hi Mark -

Nice to see you here - hope all is well.

Anyway, I found the Ambra this summer, and decided to give it a try.
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JC (NC)

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Re: WTN: Five Italian Wines

by JC (NC) » Tue Oct 05, 2010 3:46 pm

We have talked about doing a "Wine Focus" on Tuscan wines at some point since it has definitely been a while. (It might also be time to considered US and/or Canadian wines again since we have been doing German Riesling and now Spanish wines.) Italy and Spain are two large wine regions that I want to explore further and I will be starting this week with postings on a Garnacha and a Garnacha/Syrah blend.

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