Two recently tasted Champagnes. I imagine having been flogged off by a well-known UK supermarket not that long ago there are plenty of Brits with a bottle or two of the Janisson tucked away. And although perhaps three times the price, the Pol Roger vintage cuvée remains as popular as ever I think.
Janisson & Fils Brut Rosé NV: This is a Pinot-rich blend, with 80% Pinot Noir and the balancing 20% entirely Chardonnay. In the glass it has an appealing salmon-sunset pink and a fine-to-moderate bead. Rich fruit on the nose, lightly biscuity-strawberry, with a touch of praline, and on the palate a creamy texture backed up by a pleasing acidic backbone and a crisp fine mousse. There is a good depth of fruit here, quite dark in character, with little notes of blackcurrant leaf, black pepper and black truffle too along the way, culminating in a very harmonious finish. It has quite a lot of substance in the mouth, reflecting the Pinot dominance, overall presenting a big mouth-filling style, with a slightly bitter grip, but still nicely poised and very easy to drink. 16.5/20
Pol Roger Brut 1999: Not quite the first taste of this vintage, but certainly the first encounter at home rather than in a large tasting. The wine has a lemon-gold hue, and a plentiful youthful bead. Aromatically it has some delicious characteristics, led by an array of autolyic aromas, especially notes of bread and porcini mushrooms, backed up by an almond twist. There is a fine freshness to it as well, a vibrant orange zest nuance. Fresh and vivacious on entry, nicely honed at the edges although there is a mild plumpness to the midpalate. Lovely autolytic style here, a prckling and nicely judged mousse too, with a very broad and flavoursome profile. Firm, lightly crisp, delicious but in a less soft style than the recently tasted 2000. This one has more lifted, citrus fruit nuances - rather reminiscent of a silex-terroir Sancerre (in style and composition - it doesn't taste like a Sauvignon!) - and it has great potential for the cellar I think. Fine. 17.5+/20

