WTN: '06 Puffeney Poulsard

A number of years ago, a certain person who used to frequent this board wrote a most memorable tasting note regarding a Poulsard. It pretty much scared me away from any bottle of wine with that word anywhere on the label, up until a month or so ago when I happened to be wandering around Corti Brothers. In their "really obscure French wine" section, I came across a bottle with "Arbois" in big letters across the front label. In a much smaller font, below this, was the word "Poulsard". I was stricken with fear for a moment, but I kept reading the label and noticed that this was a wine from Jacques Puffeney. The scary tasting note was in reference to a wine from Overnoy, so I decided that maybe this would be a good time to face my fears and conquer the awful mental associations that this tasting note conjured up. I bought the bottle (~$35 or so, which is a little steep for facing fears given the current economic conditions, but what do you do?). 12.5% alcohol, imported by Rosenthal. It sat in my basement, waiting for someone to come over who would appreciate, or at least taste something as obscure as this. Tonight, my friend Ray came over and I figured he was as good a patsy as anyone.

First impression: "They put @$@%& wax on this $%&** cork." So after scraping hardened wax into the sink for a couple of minutes, I was able to twist a corkscrew in and open the bottle. In the glass, the stuff is as lightly colored as everyone says it is. Looks like a particularly meaty rose. Crystal clear, though. Nose is something along the lines of smoked cherries, with identifiable fruit and a very significant earthy-smoky character (not toasty oak, though). Tastes good. Lightly textured but with plenty of that earthy flavor. Full in the mid-palate, acidity that's appropriate rather than overbearing, minimal tannins (if any), nice clean finish.

I liked this wine a lot, although it's a bit pricey for what it is. It's not profound, but it's delicious wine that would go well with a variety of foods and which will not have you snoring at the table after two glasses.

And I will sleep better tonight for having conquered my fear of Poulsard, once and for all! (Next step: the Overnoy!)

The Overnoy we drank earlier this year was lovely...especially if one if a fan of a good tea

Is this the 'M' bottling? Opened one of those a few days ago, and it was very pleasant, light and refreshing. Though the price is surprising; Chambers had it at $24 minus mixed case discount...

Salil -

Not sure about the bottling. There was nothing on the label regarding an "M" designation.

That would have been a very good price for the bottle we had.

That would have been a very good price for the bottle we had.

Especially considering the fact that the M is a special cuvee that costs more than the regular bottle you had!

Mike -

Thanks for the note and the background. I enjoyed the 2005 Puffeney Poulsard M last year, but have not tried either cuvee from 2006 yet.

Congrats on conquering your fears, Mike, of Poulsard. It's not a grape variety that's going to set the world on fire or anything,
but it's an interesting vinous side-excursion.
The Arbois wines all seem to be on the pricey side for what they are.
Perchance....was the wine below 14.5% abv, Mike???
Tom

The Arbois wines all seem to be on the pricey side for what they are.

Compared to what? $24-28 for the Puffeney red wines that are all filled with complexity and flavor interest that changes throughout the bottle seems pretty fair to me. And I don't think I'm speaking as a high roller.

I'm with Rahsaan - most of the Arbois reds I've seen from Gahier/Puffeney around the NY area all run in that price range. Haven't seen any over $30, and I've found Puffeney's wines in particular very enjoyable, elegant and solid value.

The Arbois wines all seem to be on the pricey side for what they are.

Compared to what? $24-28 for the Puffeney red wines that are all filled with complexity and flavor interest that changes throughout the bottle seems pretty fair to me. And I don't think I'm speaking as a high roller.

Ramen, Brother Rahsaan!

Well, I might be more tempted to buy more if it were in the $25 range here. Problem being that there seems to be a lot of tasty Rhone stuff at the $15 - $20 range. At $35, the Puffeney is out of my range for what it is. (Where do you buy it for the low $20's, Brian?)


And yep, alcohol was listed at 12.5%.

I think at K&L in the City. Although I've had only the basic bottling, not the "M"

I picked up a Poulsard from a new producer at Vintages Berkeley last week. Everything they sell is $25 or less. I didn't write down the name in my data base, so will report back.

[David M. Bueker]

Mike - click this link to revive your fears.

Phenomenal. Another absolutely brilliant line (that I found as entertaining as the description of the Overnoy): "The only thing that saved the ''98 Dutschke St. Jakobi Shiraz from being the worst wine of the night was the Overnoy. You could tell the age of this wine by sawing it in half and counting the rings."

Why did Stewart disappear completely? He was fantastic!

Mike - click this link to revive your fears.

Darn it, David! Now it's going to be another ten years before I can get get myself to try another Poulsard!!