Went to the open house yesterday at the winery and tried 10 barrel samples, one finished wine in bottle and two varieties of must.
For those who know the label, I think it is fair to say that these beverages, some of which qualify as wine, are unique. There are a few folks around with an occasional lean in this direction but no one whose entire line-up tastes like this. Or is made like this.
That, of course, makes them controversial - one needs to approach these bottles with no preconceptions and with a willingness to taste 'outside the box.' Abe Shoener, 48, is Winemaker, Graeme Macdonald, Assistant Winemaker, and Johanna Jensen, Director of Operations. Graeme was not around, but Abe and Johanna poured and talked about the wines.
All of these have very individual names based on philosophical or mythological figures and none are cheap. The whites, I think, would probably be more palatable to the majority of tasters.
Abe believes in getting wines "accustomed" to oxygen and his regimens specifically include minimal SO2 and considerable exposure to oxygen during aging. Some to the point that flor is formed.
Lots of skin contact ferments, whole-cluster ferments, and, depending on the lot, very different pump-over/punch down routines.
Some barrels evidence VA, some a sherried quality, some too much SO2 (when he tries to stop the wine from oxidizing too much) but all exhibit unusual flavors and aromas that are seldom found in most table wines.
My favorite beverage of the tasting was a 17+% skin fermented, aged 4 years in half barrel, pinot grigio. I would not call it wine, rather it referenced certain digestifs I have tried. But the taste is unforgettable and, used as an after dinner or with cheese accompaniment, I think it will shine. (Diane hated it.)
I don't advocate buying these wines unless you have disposable income, an open mind and a penchant for the unusual. For those in that category, this is an E ticket ride.
Best, Jim