WTN: I still don't get Amarone

Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Acinatico 1996 – Stefano Accordini – Alc.15% - made from Corvina Veronese 75%, Rondinella 20% and Molinara 5%.

I have never been convinced by this super-ripe wine type (indeed the only wine made by the Amarone technique which I have really enjoyed was a Sforzato from Valtellina which benefitted from the distinction of Nebbiolo). This one did not to make me change my mind.

I was looking for a bottle to accompany a rather sweet incarnation of "noix d'agneau", covered in honey and served with caramelised carrots. I pulled out this bottle thinking that this might be a combination which would at last work.

Aromas were of burnished raisin with English Christmas pudding and dashes of malt and brandy butter. The palate was full bodied, mouth filling, quite long and quite sweet with rich dried fruit exuding the aromas already described and it darkened toward the gently bitter finish. However, I would have welcomed some lively acidity (even volatile) to balance the richness. I don’t have enough experience of Amarone to say how good this was of its kind but it was certainly unsuitable as a pairing for delicious lamb, even quite sweet. Indeed I find it hard to see what would work; perhaps Stilton or Roquefort; barely 15/20.

[David M. Bueker]

If I go back to my early days in wine I was enthused by Amarone, but then I was also a fan of high alcohol zinfandel, and some other wines that tend to volatility.

No more.

Years ago I heard that "olives are an acquired taste". So it is with Amarone. Those of us who have indeed acquired the taste have come to learn that it is largely that special note of bitterness, that tinged with the illusion of sweetness, that so fascinates. As to matching Amarone with food, I think I would prefer trying to match cotton candy with wine. For me the best Amarone wines remain those that are contemplation wines, if to be accompanied by food at all, only by bread, butter and a fine assortment of cheeses.

As to the high-powered, hi-alcohol, blockbuster Zinfandel wines of California, a taste I have not acquired. Nor do I think I shall so acquire.

Best
Rogov

I'd also add that it seems a wine style where balance seems difficult to achieve. I tend to find the tastiest to be pretty special, but if the balance isn't there then the wines can be thoroughly unenjoyable.

Two recent notes on Masi Amarone's (May 2010 at a Decanter scrum tasting) - with the latter wine really offering much interest.

Masi Amarone Costasera Classico 2006 – Lively nose with underlying power. Good freshness to the palate with soft tannins and good balance.

*Serego Alighieri, Vaio Armaron Amarone 2004 – Pungent nose which leapt out of the glass. This ‘raw power’ character continued on the palate, but crucially there was already decent complexity and firm but fine tannic support. Could well become very special.

regards

Ian

I'm in your camp, Tim. I just can't seem to get much pleasure out of Amarones either. And you gotta
spend big $$'s for them. For me, even the moost rudimentary Calif LateHrvst Zin offers up more pleasure.
Tom

Agreed with Daniel, a nice Amarone is meant to drink on its own , not with food. Once you got hooked , you'll find it's very delicious indeed albeit it can be alcoholic at times but should not gets in the way as the wine is so big and full!

... Sforzato from Valtellina which benefitted from the distinction of Nebbiolo...

Had to laugh at this. Heck, I think sewage water would benefit from the addition of nebbiolo !

I know what you are saying, but I have a fondness for Amarone's when well-aged. It was one of the earliest wines I drank when starting my wine education and had some nice examples from the 80's and 70's. Luckily, we don't have to like every wine we come into contact with.

[James Roscoe]

I like Amarone with rare duck breast, but that is just me.

I don't often drink Amarone, and even when I do, it is rare that I enjoy them. It does happen though when the stars are aligned correctly and I've had some brilliant bottles. On the other hand, Rapasso and regular Valpolicella are often very decent dinner wines, and the better ones are quite delicious.

Cheers,
Bill

... Sforzato from Valtellina which benefitted from the distinction of Nebbiolo...

Had to laugh at this. Heck, I think sewage water would benefit from the addition of nebbiolo !

Mark, a post on another site reminded me that I have enjoyed an Amarone technique wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon where that grape's rigour also helps to elevate the wine. Here is the TN from 18 months ago to be read with the caution that it was a sip and spit tasting and there is no guarantee therefore that at dinner I would want a second glass.

Joseph “Moda” Cabernet-Sauvignon/Merlot 2007, South Australia – (€35), 80% CabSauv and 20% Merlot with the Cabs undergoing the Amarone technique, was the outstanding wine in this Joseph line-up with full body, rich complex fruit as befits the technique, mild hints of toffee and differentiated from, and IMO preferable to, most Veronese Amarones by some lively acidity and classy Cab style tannic structure; 17/20.

I don't often drink Amarone, and even when I do, it is rare that I enjoy them. It does happen though when the stars are aligned correctly and I've had some brilliant bottles. On the other hand, Rapasso and regular Valpolicella are often very decent dinner wines, and the better ones are quite delicious.

Cheers,
Bill

Bill, I fully agree about some Valpolicella and Ripasso being delicious. Playing variations on the theme of rigorous grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo providing good raw material for the Amarone style, I wonder if my lack of enthusiasm for the Veronese efforts is not related to Corvina's, etc. lacking the class, for my palate, to stand up to super-ripening and concentration.

Drink now Quintarelli's Amarone 2000 or Marion's Amarone 2000 or Viviani's Amarone Casa dei Bepi 2000 or Speri's Amarone 2000 to understand what is a GREAT AMARONE.

In full accordance with Daniel's statements and sentiments.

I am an admirer of Amarone. I also realize that there are unfortunately some pedestrian or overdone Amaroni; but the existence of the profoundly interesting ones makes the chase worthwhile.

I also do not think of Amarone as a food wine, although it can be and has been in some memorable circumstances. But the fondest memories of Amarone, for me, have little to do with food. They are vini da meditazione, and for me in the same category as great Madeira or solera Sherry...as Daniel says, wines of contemplation.

They are not suitable for cocktail wine---too massive and demanding of focus and concentration---but rather better suited for other occasions.

One of those most pleasant memories of Amarone was of a long and lovely afternoon spent in the Piazza della Herbe in Verona (one of my favorite Italian cities), after a long, strenuous day, watching the sun slowly mellow from lemon bright to golden, perusing the facades of the buildings, and most importantly, watching the slow progression of people promenading through the piazza as I sat complacently toying with my glass of Amarone. The wine was eminently suitable for the occasion; the occasion was eminently suited to the wine.

One of those most pleasant memories of Amarone was of a long and lovely afternoon spent in the Piazza della Herbe in Verona (one of my favorite Italian cities), after a long, strenuous day, watching the sun slowly mellow from lemon bright to golden, perusing the facades of the buildings, and most importantly, watching the slow progression of people promenading through the piazza as I sat complacently toying with my glass of Amarone. The wine was eminently suitable for the occasion; the occasion was eminently suited to the wine.

A supremely eloquent case for the defence (and an object lesson on why it's a nonsense to think of wine as purely defined by a points score!)

One of those most pleasant memories of Amarone was of a long and lovely afternoon spent in the Piazza della Herbe in Verona (one of my favorite Italian cities), after a long, strenuous day, watching the sun slowly mellow from lemon bright to golden, perusing the facades of the buildings, and most importantly, watching the slow progression of people promenading through the piazza as I sat complacently toying with my glass of Amarone. The wine was eminently suitable for the occasion; the occasion was eminently suited to the wine.

A supremely eloquent case for the defence (and an object lesson on why it's a nonsense to think of wine as purely defined by a points score!)

I guess that, in those surroundings, I might get Amarone at last, particularly if the glass is of Quintarelli .