2007 Porter Creek, Pinot Noir Fiona Hill:
13.9 % alcohol, biodynamic and Demeter certified; not your typical Russian River pinot with more black cherry than red and not near the raspberry one usually finds - this is quite young and shows it on the nose - somewhat closed but still enough black/Morello cherry, clean earth and spice tones to get you interested; in the mouth, village Vosne-Romanee. ‘Little CA about this wine; 14 year old vines of the Vadensville 2A clone, 25% new oak, native yeasts, no over extraction, no manipulation, no spoof - this is very fine grained, deep, mellow but still vivid, complete, balanced, velvety, individual and structured; long, full, slightly astringent finish.
I remember these guys from twenty years ago, when their tasting room was their garage, the tasting table was an old door strung between two saw-horses and you had to step over dog poop on the way up the driveway. The new tasting room is still the garage although now its all about rural charm. But even then, they weren’t copy-cats; no attempt to re-do Rochioli or others of West Side Road fame.
And now, with Demeter Certification, they have taken the next step - up.
The first young CA pinot I have had in the past several years that is truly worth $36 a bottle. Has a long, evolving life ahead of it yet is impressive even in its infancy.
(They also do a reserve bottling from the same vineyard - the reserve coming from the top of the hill - with 40% new oak. Also impressive with a bit more creaminess in the mouth and a lovely sort of antique nose. But its about $65, and 14.2% alcohol so I’ll stick with this one.)
2005 Michaud, Brouilly Prestige de Vieilles Vignes:
13% alcohol; quite rich and more like a good Morgon with black fruit, depth and a smooth texture - not especially complex as yet, but has lots of stuffing and ample fruit.
Shows old vine intensity.
2006 Porter-Bass, Zinfandel:
15.2% alcohol; an odd nose of sausage and fruit; unusual flavors also - no jam or flamboyance - more understated and earthy. Decent but not something I’d buy.
2004 Rusden, Cab./Shiraz:
Swamp water and green bell peppers.
DNPIM.
2008 Dom. Alain Normand, Macon la Roche Vineuse:
A serviceable wine - no noticeable oak, varietally correct, with good balance and nothing out of place. Excellent with goat cheese. Do not serve over-chilled. About $16 - for $4 more one could buy the 2007 Dom. Roally that I recently wrote up - and one should think about spending the extra four. This was nice; the Roally was world class.
Best, Jim
