This was another lively evening chez Jean and Dodo with bottles contributed by each family present. The theme of the evening was Italy with special reference to Piedmont. The presence of cork related flaws on a couple of bottles did not IMO prevent them from being interesting and enjoyable but it was tantalising to wonder how impeccable specimens might have shown.
Vermetino-di-Maremma Ariento 2000 - Massa Vecchia – had a golden colour and presented oxidative touches on the attractively burnished nose which showed elements of dried tropical fruit. The palate was just off-dry (sorry I vowed to erase this term from my vocabulary) and original in its generosity with its dusty dried fruit flavours and aromas. As time progressed I thought that the dusty elements became more prominent and aromas dried out; interesting though; 15/20.
Barolo Casé Maté 1998 - Elio Grasso – was a powerful and quite tannic wine just, I guess, at the beginning of its drinking window. Colour was deeper than often with Barolo, body was quite full, liquorice tinged tar was very prominent in its aromas along with some dark fruit, there was considerable density, generous mouth-fill and a finish supported by firm tannins. I think that there is improvement potential here; now 16/20.
Barbaresco 1995 - Bruno Giacosa – was lighter coloured and bodied than the previous and showed a lot of charm with the Nebbiolo tar much more in the background and a lot of fragrance which mixed in violet and red fruit elements. At its peak probably; 16.5/20.
Barolo Bussia Soprana 1988 - Aldo Conterno. This producer has been the source of some of my most memorable bottles of Barolo and at first this bottle seemed to be a more mature and complex synthesis of the two previous combining strength with fragrance and harmony. But did I notice on some sips just a whiff of cardboard towards the finish? When Germaine declared it slightly corked, everyone concurred. What a pity! The parasite trace was less of a barrier to enjoyment than the flaws on the next bottle but, without it, this could have been near to my ideal of Barolo. NR.
Barbaresco Asili 1978 – Ceretto. This bottle had a crumbly cork and had to be decanted. Probably as a result, ripe cheese aromas dominated the nose at first but receded in the background as mature red fruit, floral, mineral and tar elements came up. On the medium bodied (fuller than the Giacosa 95) and fairly dense palate the cheesy streak was barely detectible but I did feel slight rotten traces of incipient break-up. Nevertheless bottle flaws at this mild level were not enough to prevent my interest and enjoyment; 15/20.
Vin-Santo Occhio di Pernicce 1988 – Avignonesi. This was a real treat. Dense, unctuous and complex but exalted by some bracing varnish laced acidity, which brought a welcome freshness. If I had not been driving home afterwards, I could have drunk a lot more; 18.5/20.
Porto 1965 – Messias. Although not mentioned on the label, this bottle from a little known Portuguese producer was Colheita in style and was bottled in 1994. At first suffering from following the intense Vin Santo, this soon revealed the ethereal charm and elegance expected from 30 year old Colheita. Perhaps more matt in feel than some Colheitas and Tawnies which I remember from Niepoort but an excellent end to the evening; 16.5/20++.
Many thanks to Jean and Dodo for their hospitality and delicious food.