Following on from last week's notes, featuring Bonnezeaux from Domaine de Mihoudy and Domaine des Petits Quarts, this week two more wines from the same appellation, this time from a slightly better known estate, Chateau la Varière:
Chateau la Varière Bonnezeaux 2004: From a 50cl bottle. This particular example of this famous sweet-wine appellation has a lovely burnished-gold hue in the glass, and on the nose plenty of character, the aromas of oranges and honey complicated by nances of caramel or creamed toffee. This latter element comes through on the palate too, alongside dried fruits and a very welcome bitter grip. A gentle acid backbone provides some lift to the lovely substance, and a gentle balance. Overall, very good. 17+/20
Chateau la Varière Bonnezeaux La Roche 2001: From a 50cl bottle. This cuvée has a rich, deeply-coloured, bronze-orange-golden hue. The nose that follows on is just as intense as the appearance suggests, with a sweet, creamy, caramelly and biscuity style. Heady and mouth-coating on the palate, with lots of interesting substance but for me it falls a little short in terms of structure, minerality, grip and bitterness. It will wine many over I suspect, but I would prefer just a little more verve. Certainly interesting to taste though. 15/20