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WTN: Serious wine and food overload at CAV

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Jay Labrador

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WTN: Serious wine and food overload at CAV

by Jay Labrador » Thu Sep 09, 2010 2:37 am

I was invited to join the Grape Apes at CAV for their monthly blind tasting competition. The theme this time was 5 star wines/wineries as rated in Parker's 7th Wine Buyer's Guide. Each participant would be a assigned a region so that there would be no duplication of region. There were 2 exceptions, though. 2 Chateauneufs were entered and so was Kai Carmenere from Errazuriz Chile which is not in the Guide but is recognized as one of the top wines of Chile.

There would be 9 wines competing: 2 Chateauneuf, Carmenere from Chile, Malbec from Argentina, Napa Cabernet, Bordeaux, Tempranillo from Spain, Nebbiolo from Italy, and Shiraz from Australia. Aside form this would be a Champagne and 3 whites to start and a dessert wine to end. All this alcohol would wash down a stupendous 22 course tasting dinner at CAV. The food and wine pairing would be left up to the Chef so we would not know the order of wine service. Each votes for his top 3 wines with corresponding points assigned 3 points for wine 1, 2 points for wine 2 etc. Winner gets a free meal paid by everyone else.

Louis Roederer Demi-sec NV - Opened for sipping while waiting for everyone to settle down. Possibly the sweetest demi-sec I've tried although I've not had many. Spicy and a bit peppery with bitterness and a faint sulfur note on the finish. I like dessert wines but I find Champagne demi-sec to be a bit rough. Good.

3 whites were served for the 6 amuses.

Trimbach Riesling 2006 - Lightish and minerally. Kind of wispy. Not too interesting.

Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Wintzenheim 2007 - Good stuff. Sweet, ripe lychee. Very expressive.

Staglin Salus Chardonnay 2006 - Smokey and silky with just a touch too much oak for my taste. A little bitter on the finish. Not really my thing.

Now the serious part, tasting the reds.

A - Left in decanter for close to 2 hours before putting it back in the bottle for transport to the restaurant. Served blind, immediately nearly everyone picked it as the Bordeaux in the lineup. Dry, rich, good fruit but still tight. An hour later some chocolate notes. After 2 hours in the glass the wine turned meaty with the tannins really picking up. By the way this developed even after so many hours exposed to air, it seems this needs a very long time in the bottle before it becomes approachable. Not too interesting at this point. Leave alone for at least another 5 years. My #3, group # 7. Chateau Palmer 2004. My entry.

B - Lightish color. Very ripe nose. Young and tannic at first, softened up over time. Very sweet, over ripe, raisined fruit. Over the top. Very good but strange. Seemed a little unbalanced as it sat in the glass. In the end, it didn't make my top 3. Group #1 Chateau Rayas 2003. I guessed the wine correctly, though.

C - Initially rich, sweet, New World in style. Not too interesting. Turns out it just needed 2 hours in the glass to get interesting. Now getting a bit of barnyard, later still, dried herbs. Getting dry. By the end of the second hour, definitely Rhonish. Smoke and tobacco. Quite complex. I'm guessing this is the other Rhone, Domaine du Pegau. And I'm right. Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee 2000. My #1, group # 4.

D - Definitely New World. Rich sweet and plummy. Not showing a lot. I guessed this was the Carmenere. It turned out to be the Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz 2005. Group #8.

E - Another New Worldy wine. Nice but a little hot. Sweet and spicy. Coffee as well. I thought this was the Malbec but this was the Napa. Lail Vineyards J Daniel Cuvee 2006. Tied with wine I in group 5th and 6th place.

F - Again, I thought New World but changed m mind. This is either the Nebbiolo or the Tempranillo. Too heavy for a Nebbiolo although it has the tannins for it. In the end I figured this for the Spanish wine. Young and tight. Not showing a lot. Needs to be left alone 3 years more at least. Pintia Toro 2004. Group last. I had a hard time choosing between this and the Palmer for my third place wine but the Palmer was just a little more expressive, no doubt due to the decanting I had done earlier in the day.

G - Dried fruits, lovely flavors. This wine is quite round and probably just at peak. For sure a European wine. I had figured the other old world wines so this must be the Italian which was the only European wine left. Gaja Sperrs 2000. My #2, Group #2.

H - New World. What a mess! Sweet and syrupy. I didn't like this at all. I thought this was the Australian Shiraz but it was the Kai Carmenere from Errazuriz (I failed to note the vintage but most likely a 2006). Group #3.

I - Hot, with some earth notes. By this time it was really tough concentrating on the wines. I was sure this was New World and guessed Napa. This was Catena Zapata Malbec Adrianna Vineyard 2004. Tied with the Lail as Group 5th and 6th place.

After the work, some dessert.

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2006 - Lovely nose of roses. Gentle and refreshing. Very good and a great way to end.

Many thanks to Nelson for organizing the whole thing and for inviting me to join in the fun. And congratulations to Arnie who, once again, got a free meal for being #1!
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.
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Re: WTN: Serious wine and food overload at CAV

by R Cabrera » Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:18 am

22 courses! Wow. Hard to imagine anyone asking for seconds.

A most interesting blind tasting with a nice line-up of wines, Jay. You did well in identifying the wines. Congratulations. I like the 2004 Palmer. It was my WOTN during a 2004 Bordeaux vintage horizontal that we had here a few years ago. One thing about young Left Bank Bordeaux, even a good one such as this, is that they normally don't do well in competitive blind tastings when other entries include wines that are more approachable and, to some degree, are showing more ripeness in them … case in point the Rayas 2003.

I also like the 2000 Pegau Reservee. Solid and reliable.

Btw, isn’t CAV the restaurant with the automatic wine dispenser in Serendra/Bonifacio? I’ve been there on a couple of occasions.

Thanks for the notes.
Ramon Cabrera
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Re: WTN: Serious wine and food overload at CAV

by Jay Labrador » Thu Sep 09, 2010 9:45 pm

Hi Ramon,

The food defeated even Arnie who asked for 3 of the dishes to be wrapped up to be taken home! I think that's the first and last time something like that will be attempted.

I had a feeling the Bordeaux wouldn't do too well against the competition but it's all in good (but expensive!) fun.

Yes, CAV is the restaurant/wine shop with the wine machines at Serendra.

Jay
Three be the things I shall never attain:
Envy, content, and sufficient champagne.

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