Hi Bruce:
I have a friend who lives in 'the county', so I have been travelling here for many years, well before they started planting grapes at Waupoos. I visit Ontario every summer, and here are some very brief notes I wrote on that particular region eariler this summer:
"I also went to the newest and fastest growing wine region in Ontraio: the Prince Edward County region. I tried about 5 wineries here. Closson Chase were tasting 3 of their chardonnays (all $45, $10 tasting fee), and there were a pretty impressive trio. I thought they had a bit too much oak, but were still quite impressive (all B+). Norman Hardie wines were also impressive. The 2008 County Chardonnay ($35) was excellent, with a great balance of fruit, oak and minerality (the thin soil here is underlain by limestone). The 2007 Niagara Region Chardonnay was bigger, richer, fuller, but not necessarily better (both A-). Their pinots were very nice too (B+/A-). The chardonnays from this region seem particularly promising".
The Closson Chase and Norman Hardie were the two top wineries I visited. Too pricey to my mind, but they were well made wines. The 2007 vintage was better than the 2008; I'm not sure how the 2009 vintage was. There was another winery just down the road from Closson Chase, they only make one pinot, and that was impressive as well. Can't remember the name, and they aren't on the map either yet I don't think. It's in a small farmhouse (although most of them are, so that's not saying very much). I wasn't all that impressed with Rosehall Run, but they had one or two nice wines.
As you say, the chardonnay and pinot are the two main wines here, and there could be some promise, although it's far too early to tell. But the county is great place to visit, really a special place, although I've had the luxury of having a life-long residents' inside knowledge. I can't help you on places to stay or eat, as I stay and eat at my friends house all the time. I did stay at the Merrill Inn in Picton once many years ago, and it was a great small inn in a lovely old brick house (
http://www.merrillinn.com). I just checked the rates, and wow! they've increased a bit since I was there. It's probably the top end place to stay. But Picton is your best bet for lodging and eateries, as it's the biggest town in the county. A very pretty one too, although they all are there!
Have fun!