This is now entering its drinking window - albeit just! My trusty cellar database tells me I’ve been sipping these since 2006, and now I'm wondering what I was thinking.
The wait is worth it. This wine is in a nice place just now. The delicate florals of Wehlener Sonnenuhr have blossomed into something else. Apples. Limes. Passionfruit and papaya. Picking up a touch of wild honey that makes this delicious juicy and tropical. It is still loaded to the gills with sulphur, and might put some drinkers off. The palate shape is remarkable - its complete, and satisfying with a lovely balance between delicate primary youth and the first signs of of the complexity of bottle age just flickering to life. And all of this resting nicely on a racy, slatey acid backbone. This has indeed just hit its drinking window - and lasted about 30 minutes once the cork was out. I wonder what some breathing would have revealed. A balanced, complete palate package, what a joy.
Cheers
Andrew