WTN: A Bonnezeaux Bonanza?

Bonnezeaux remains an under-the-radar sweet wine appellation, one with a high standing as a Layon cru but which nevertheless seems to be under-exploited, and thus it maintains a low profile. Who can name more than one Bonnezeaux domaine?

When exploring Anjou recently I stayed in Faye d'Anjou, a few minutes drive from Thouarcé, Around which the Bonnezeaux appellation is centred (the little hamlet of Bonnezeaux itself lies a little further to the north). I took particular care to try a few examples. Here are two of them:

Domaine des Petits Quarts Bonnezeaux 2007: From a 50cl bottle. Bottled under synthetic closure. A nice nose here, honey and quartz with a tinge of herbal tea. Fresh on the palate, plenty of citrus fruits, good flesh and sweetness too though. Underneath it all though it lacks complexity, even taking into account this wine's youth. Straightforward but attractive. For drinking soon in view of the closure. 15/20

Domaine de Mihoudy Bonnezeaux 2009: From a 50cl bottle. Another very young example, with a light golden hue. Notes of orange blossom on the nose, elegant and floral, perhaps a touch medicinal too. Good sweetness on the palate, a light grip, with well-judged flesh and substance. Towards the end it shows more grip and even an appealing hint of bitterness, with orange zest vitality. Not over the top, and not too simple either. Nice. 15.5/20

For those in the know I`d say. I would handsell/promote these for sure but doubt will ever see in my neighbourhood/province!

Tim might have some insight on this small appellation?

Tim might have some insight on this small appellation?

Bob, I don't have a lot of experience of Bonnezeaux. Over the decades Château de Fesles under the regime of M.Boivin (lovely name for a vigneron) was a quality reference sold by the Nicolas chain, if my memory does not deceive me. However under pastry chef Gaston Lenôtre it fell into a bit of a tail-spin; it has revived under Bernard Germain.

These estates reviewed by Chris are unfamiliar to me and his lukewarm enthusiasm perhaps explains why they are not better known.

Anecdote:

A few years ago, we were dining at the excellent (but now defunct I think) Restaurant Jeanne de Laval (Augereau) at Les Rosiers-sur-Loire which was a favourite of ours. I discussed Château de Fesles with Mme. Augereau. She said "it is very sad. M. Lenôtre invested a lot in superb installations but was badly advised" (euphemism for "swindled")...."but here is M. Lenôtre just entering the dining room." So I learned no more.

Also by the time Bonnezeaux's get to us, they are not exactly affordable wines. Many are close to or higher than $80 - $100 for a 500mL bottle.

Also by the time Bonnezeaux's get to us, they are not exactly affordable wines. Many are close to or higher than $80 - $100 for a 500mL bottle.

Somebody is making money there Recent vintages of Château de Fesles go for c.€30/50cl in France and about the same here. And there's a mark-up in these prices, too.

Also by the time Bonnezeaux's get to us, they are not exactly affordable wines. Many are close to or higher than $80 - $100 for a 500mL bottle.

Seriously? I have a regular-size bottle of a 2005 Vaillant Bonnezeaux Le Malabe that somehow found it's way into my home wine cooler. I've never had a Bonnezeaux, even after I had come back from Loire las week. So, I dug my bottle up but just couldn't get to open it because I don't know if it'll go with any of our dinners.

So, anybody here know what I should serve this with?

The only Bonnezeaux wines I generally see are Fesles and Rene Renou, both tend to be in $40-45 full bottle range (500s are usually 30ish)

Ramon, think Quarts dC. I'd go with cheese personally, but if you wanted to do with dessert I'd maybe aim for apple, as sweet Chenin usually reminds me of apple pie!

if you wanted to do with dessert I'd maybe aim for apple, as sweet Chenin usually reminds me of apple pie!

Although when young it can come off like fruit salad with more tropical elements.

Regardless, I often think of custard as a good match for sweet chenin. The flavors aren't too heavy to clash with the wine, and the dish isn't too heavy either (something very valuable in a dessert).

Fig cake? Pain d'epices? Dried fruits (non-sulphured only)? Pannetone? Sponge cake, perhaps with a drizzle of dried cranberry and apricot compote?

Sponge cake, perhaps with a drizzle of dried cranberry and apricot compote?

Good suggestions, as one would expect. But why so specific with dried cranberry? I wouldn't have thought of it for chenin. If anything I would have thought of other flavors that might mirror the wine, peach or nectarine.

Although I'm sure your idea is fabulous. It's making me crave more dessert as I finish tonight's melon granita and turn back to the 08 Huet Demi-Sec...