2004 Domaine aux Moines [Laroche] Savennières “Roche aux Moines”
Opens with nice plump weight in the middle but a clear streak of acids screaming around the edges. With a few hours of air that integrates and it tastes progressively less sour. Eventually it is quite an enjoyable, creamy and waxy yet still crisp and almost flinty Savennières. Not grand, and does not show much length, depth or transcendent vibrato, but it is hardly a full-on bumpkin, and is quite nice and respectable if not regal. I would prefer the 11euro France price to the $21 Oakland price. But hey, what else is new.
2004 Tamellini Soave
This is impressive. Bursting with juicy ripe green yellow fruits (yes, green and yellow can be ripe) yet the finish is so clean lively and fresh. $14 is cheap.
2005 Domaine de la Pépière VdPdJdlFMdB “Cuvée Granit”
You heard it here first, this is fun stuff! Same as it ever was over this past month, and goes extraordinarily well with tomato, red pepper, rosemary and garlic pizza.
2004 JP Brun Terres Dorées Beaujolais “L’Ancien”
Tart bright fruit that gets firmer and more tannic with air. This is definitely a high-toned bright number that is stark clear and crisp, but it has depth in terms of flavor and the joyousness factor. Forgive the digression but these cherries are baked, coiled, focused, and fine. Mmmm.
1997 Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve
Resolved rusty iron lean red fruits. Not much to see here.
2004 Gunderloch “Jean Baptiste” Riesling Kabinett
A couple of months ago I did not like this at all, and I found it too dry and sour. But, things taste different now, which is either a function of the wine changing or my palate being out of whack. Whatever the answer, I prefer what is happening now, as this is showing a juicy core of sweet lemon drops surrounded by a crisp tingling somewhat-mineral flat grey carbon frame. Not ponderous, but perfectly acceptable to pour and have fun with people.
1999 Ferdinando Zanusso i Clivi Collio Goriziano “Brazan”
Mmm, curious but tasty pungent spicy apple cider with sour ginger lemons, a nutty oxidized twist and a salty mineral finish. The texture is crunchy, slightly spritzy, but with enough weight to keep it tactile and to keep me putting it in my mouth. Until eventually I decide that the curiosity factor is just not giving enough pleasure to continue. I understand some people paid serious money for this, which may change the calculation, but I found it for $11.50 on closeout, which was a fine purchase, if not necessary to repeat.
