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Loire Trip

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Dan Smothergill

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Loire Trip

by Dan Smothergill » Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:18 am

We are going to the Loire to sample major regions from Sancerre to Nantais. The various wine books are in pretty good agreement about producers to look for, but in AOCs like Savennieres, Jasnieres, Cour Cheverny and some others they all seem tres cher - probably given a boost by landing in the wine books. We're doing our part to help the world economy but don't want to go broke in the process. Names of producers whose wines you would recommend but that won't break the bank would be appreciated.
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Re: Loire Trip

by R Cabrera » Mon Aug 30, 2010 9:46 am

I had just gotten back from a 7-day stay in a farmhouse near Saumur. I'll post some wine notes as soon as I get organized, and unfortunately today I left my iPhone at home and not be able to provide some names right now.
We also had a great time visiting with a few wineries, but concentrated in the Saumur-Savennieres-Chinon area.
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Re: Loire Trip

by Rahsaan » Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:11 am

Dan Smothergill wrote:We are going to the Loire to sample major regions from Sancerre to Nantais. The various wine books are in pretty good agreement about producers to look for, but in AOCs like Savennieres, Jasnieres, Cour Cheverny and some others they all seem tres cher - probably given a boost by landing in the wine books. We're doing our part to help the world economy but don't want to go broke in the process. Names of producers whose wines you would recommend but that won't break the bank would be appreciated.


Tres cher for Savennieres, Jasnieres and Cour Cheverny? I would hardly call those three the most expensive appellations. They are fairly small compared to larger appellations with more variety like Anjou, Touraine, or even Vouvray, but you can still get great wine at the winery for well under 20euros, even if some cuvees cost more. If you're going through the trouble of flying over there, how much cheaper were you expecting the wines to be?

If you just want basic quaffing wine for 5euros a bottle or less, you'll be able to find plenty of that. Don't worry. But not sure it's worth the trouble to fly so far for that.
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Re: Loire Trip

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Mon Aug 30, 2010 11:45 am

Chris Kissick at the winedoctor.com has itineries all laid out for you! Also check out the Richard Kelly site.

http://www.richardkelley.co.uk/index.htm

http://www.thewinedoctor.com/cgi-bin/se ... ire+travel
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Re: Loire Trip

by David Creighton » Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:48 pm

ok, i'll allow that savennieres can be more expensive. but jasnieres and cour cheverny can be had for 8euro or less. there are also some nice reds made up by jasnieres - coteaux du vendomois. and don't forget menetou-salon. it should still be rose wine weather when you are there so be sure to drink as much rose from sancerre, chinon, cheverny etc as you can. and see if you can find a bottle of touraine noble joue - pretty rare stuff and fun. are you planning to ship wine back?
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Re: Loire Trip

by Richard Fadeley OLD » Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:21 pm

A visit to Chavignol, and hopefully Henri Bourgeois, will provide a thrilling "French experience". Bourgeois does a complete lineup of "lieu dits" and styles. We bought several bottles and opened one for a lunch. We found a crottin de Chavignol from a local shop close to Bourgeois, and went up on the side on the hill overlooking the village, (continue up the hill from the tasting room), (and looking back at Sancerre) and had a very pleasant picnic with a baguette with the cheese and leftovers from the night before, while locals para-sailed on a nearby hill. I would recommend the restaurant "La Tour" right on the town square. This is a rising star, and will get one (Michelin star) soon, IMO. One of the best grower's Champagne is their house bubbly. Very impressive!
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Re: Loire Trip

by Richard Fadeley OLD » Mon Aug 30, 2010 10:39 pm

Don't overlook a side-trip to L'Abbay de Fontevraud, near Saumur, (it's not easy to find, but worth the effort) a most interesting abbey that housed monks and nuns (choice assignment) and later turned into a prison, after the revolution. No wine, but a nice dose of culture. Enjoy!
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Re: Loire Trip

by John S » Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:00 am

I'm also puzzled by your 'tres cher' comment, as the wine prices in this region are very reasonable. In Savennieres, there are many good producers, from Closel, Baumard, Laroche, to Epire and Joly. Chinon is a nice base, with some nice restaurants (Les trente annees) and wineries (e.g., Joguet, Baudry). Lots of great wines for 10-20 Euros, and sometimes much less. It's a lovely area with a very laid back vibe, and lots of amazing castles. Everything is fairly spread out, so you'll be driving a fair bit on scenic roads (if you take the back roads).
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Tim York

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Re: Loire Trip

by Tim York » Tue Aug 31, 2010 2:50 am

Add me to those puzzled by the "très cher" comment. I rate Loire about the best QPR in European fine wine regions. Unless you just have to buy from Clos Rougeard, Coulée de Serrant*, Alphonse Mellot or Didier Dagueneau, you can find great wines in the 12-25€ bracket and some very good ones between 5 & 11€. In Jasnières, my favourite producer is Éric Nicolas, Domaine de la Bellivière, and his top wine, Caligramme, comes at €30, but most of the rest cost <€20.

Even if you don't read French, I would recommend getting one of the annual French guides for their wealth of information, a lot of which does not need translation. IMO the most user friendly is Les Meilleurs Vins de France published by the RVF. The 2011 edition will be available within a matter of days and can be got from Amazon France.

How long will you be staying in the region? The distance from Sancerre to Nantes distance without detours to vineyards is just over 400km so a lot of your time will be spent driving if you want to cover it all.

Apart from Bellivière, here are some of my other favourite estates -

Sancerre - Cotat (both François and Pascal are equally good in a similar style)

Menetou-Salon - Henry Pellé

Vouvray - Huet*, Foreau & Chidaine

Montlouis - Chidaine & La Taille aux Loups (NB Madame Chidaine has a shop, la Cave Insolite, with a good choice of top Loire producers on the waterfront at Montlouis. Their own wine can be tasted there.)

Chinon - Bernard Baudry, Philippe Alliet & Charles Joguet*

Bourgueil and St. Nic. B - Yannick Amirault, Dom. de la Butte & Dom. de la Chevalerie

Saumur-Champigny/Saumur - Ch.de Villeneuve, Ch.du Hureau, Dom. des Roches Neuves* & René-Noël Legrand (only one cuvée >€10 here)

Coteaux du Layon/Savennières - Ch. Pierre-Bise, Éric Morgat, Baumard*,

Muscadet - Luneau-Papin, Dom.de l'Écu

I have probably forgotten a few. I would recommend making appointments even at la Cave Insolite if you want to be shown round by François Chidaine. It's is a bit of a crap-shoot whether you find English speaking ability at any of these estates but I have put a * where I would expect to find English spoken.
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David Creighton

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Re: Loire Trip

by David Creighton » Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:46 am

i agree with chinon as a base camp - esp. the wonderful Hotel Diderot at super reasonable prices. i plan to spend a week there every year for the rest of my life. i would visit nicolas grosbois in panzeau just east of town - an up an coming star of the area and a nice young fellow who speaks great english. the cave at the edge of the village may seem touristy but the wines - Pluzeau - are very good. i'm finishing a case of their rose. the chateau at chinon can safely be avoided but be sure to take a walk on the path just above the village - several ways to get to it. a good view and picnic spot from the park across the river; but another nice picnic spot at the 'panarama' on the road to panzeau. good wine shop on the main square where they speak english and give winery prices for 12 bottles.
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Re: Loire Trip

by Richard Fadeley OLD » Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:08 pm

I forgot to mention Jacquelyn Frederich's book "Loire", it is a big help in finding and seeking out the top domains. It is available in paperback, used would be the best value, and you definitely want to take it with you. A wonderful resource.
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Dan Smothergill

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Re: Loire Trip

by Dan Smothergill » Thu Sep 02, 2010 10:03 am

The number of producers in any part of the Loire, no less the number of wines each of them produces, is staggering. This dedicated rapiat (20 euros is about right for two bottles, not one, anywhere) doesn't personally want to get staggering each day in the pursuit of good QPR so sought advice. Thanks to those who made suggestions.
I do have Friedrich's book and find it very informative, as well as Duijker's. Both are dated but the recommendations are not a whole lot different from more recent ones found on the web.

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