Vin de Pays de l’Hérault 1990 – Mas de Daumas Gassac, Aimé Guibert – Alc.12.7%, made from Cabernet Sauvignon 70% and the rest from Malbec, Merlot, Syra(sic), CabFranc, Pinot, Tannat.
Colour is quite dense with brown tints on the pour. The bouquet could belong to a “grand vin” with noble red and black currant, minerals, a touch of leather and a round undertow. The attack and the mid-palate are pretty impressive, too, with full body, depth, vigour, bright fruit and some secondary development of forest floor with old book hints. Perfection was, however, compromised by some very firm and slightly bitter tannins on the finish which were sensitive to the pairing; they were in the background and fully acceptable after a mouthful of succulent beef but rather prominent after a mouthful of French beans or on its own. I wonder if the balance might not have been better a few years ago against more primary fruit. Nevertheless a fine wine with a classy swagger; with the beef 17/20+.
