WTN: Lunch with Salil (Rieslings, Burg & an oddity)

[David M. Bueker]

No, the oddity was not Salil.

Long lunch today with Salil. He provided kebabs & paneer, while I made up some new potatoes from today's CSA package.

We also drank some wine.

2009 Robert Weil Riesling Spatlese
The estate bottling. Salil thinks it's a great value, and certainly worht buying in place of the ridiculously priced Grafenberg Spatlese. This bottles makes me agree. Rich but not over the top, bright, balanced and very long. Certainly in a more lushly fruited Rheingau style versus a more linear Mosel, but delicious nonetheless.

2002 Domaine Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos de Mouches
From 375ml, and I don't really see how this could be too much better. It's still very fruity, but also has great aromatic breadth with fantastic, earthy length. Amazing to smell, which is my hallmark of outstanding Burgundy.

2008 A. J. Adam Riesling Hofberg (feinherb)
Tight and unyielding at first, but after about 2 hours (and several strings of Wii bowling) it morphed and became much more floral and stony on the nose with more richness on the palate. Very nice, but clearly needs time. I can see where if it is opened and consumed too quickly that it could be written off as much too austere.

2008 Pierre Gonon Vin de Pays des Collines & Rhodaniennes
A sweet wine that isn't sweet enough, loaded with acetone notes and disjointed acidity. I'm not sure what this is trying to be, but it's not succeeding. Bleh. Thank heavens it was cheap.

2007 Egon Muller Le Gallais Wiltinger Braune Kupp Riesling Auslese GK (Auction)
Thank you Salil! I never thought I would have an Egon Muller auction wine, and honestly I may have been better off if I hadn't. Supremely balanced, mineral, long, elegant, fruity, sweet but clean - words really don't do it justice. One of my best wine experiences all year. Fantastic.

Thanks for the notes.

I saw that Gonon at CSW and was considering it, all of the Syrahs are so fantastic... glad I didn't buy any.

Much as I love Gonon's reds I must admit to being underwhelmed by the Moelleux as well. Ah, well.

David - IIRC I have one half bottle of an E. Muller auction wine. If I still have it the next time you pass through and you remind me I'll try and dig it out.

Really fun afternoon, David - thanks again for having me over.

We're pretty much in agreement on those wines. I thought the Weil was lovely with fresh, bright fruit, nice minerality and a very pleasant floral element that developed with time. At about 18E in Frankfurt, I think it's very good value on its own, and even better compared to the hideous prices that Weil's Kiedricher Turmberg and Grafenberg Spatlesen sell for these days.

Liked the Drouhin a lot, particularly the aromatics. A few hours of air really helped the Adam - after it opened up, I found a lot of similarities to some of the '08 Van Volxems with the same sense of precision, a rich middle and nice floral and faint herbal accents over the fruit. I'll keep an eye out for the Feinherb in '09.
I disliked the Gonon - thought in addition to the varnished notes and lack of richness, it felt a little hot and alcoholic at the back end. I'll just stick to his Syrahs.

The Muller was stunning - a bit tight at first, but it kept opening and getting better with air. As I mentioned, I found the purity and sheer elegance truly amazing for an auction GKA - a wine I expected to be a lot denser and sweeter than it actually was. Truly stellar wine that actually came close to my incredibly high expectations for it.

Next time: Rebholz (hopefully)!

Was the Clos des Mouches the red version? (I think they also make a white). I've had a few older vintages of the red and remember the lovely and somewhat distinctive aromatics. I wonder if they are related to the small amount of Pinot Gris that's in the wine (according to their web site)?

The Clos des Mouches was a red (and a long overdue reminder that I really should drink more from Drouhin).

I bought some Drouhin wines at a tasting with Laurent Drouhin in Charlotte last April. Have considered seeking out the Clos des Mouches and your notes have prompted me to do so. Will see if I can obtain some from 2005 or 2007.

[David M. Bueker]

JC,

2005 (and 2006 for that matter) will not be for drinking now. The 2007 should be rather open/approachable given the character of the vintage.

JC,

2005 (and 2006 for that matter) will not be for drinking now. The 2007 should be rather open/approachable given the character of the vintage.

David,
Just to clarify, you're talking there specifically about the Clos des Mouches, no? We've been drinking the '06 Chorey with pleasure for the last few years (though it has, paradoxically, grown bigger and more tannic with time).

Mark Lipton

[David M. Bueker]

Yes, the Clos des Mouches.