1 from Germany, 2 from Rioja w/ Filipino Food.

Dinner of the 24th August 2010 was at home for Tita Rose (Miguel's mom) who so graciously hosted Catha and I at her home in Barcelona for several days in March and April 2010. Even when we were planning this dinner back then, Tita Rose made it clear that she would like to have Filipino cuisine. Of course, we were more than happy to oblige.



With Tita Rose on this trip was her sister, Tita Amen, who was the one who was able to get Catha and I a reservation at 3 Michelin star Restaurante Arzak (San Sebastian) with just a few days' notice - certainly no mean feat. Besides them and, of course, Miguel & Ria, longtime friends Beto & Teresa joined us (Beto being a cousin of Tita Rose and Tita Amen on the Cacho side). It had been a long time since Beto & Teresa came over for dinner, so this was a nice little reunion.


Beto, Teresa, Tita Rose, Catha, Ria, Tita Amen & Miguel

Though we had discussed some of the dishes with Tita Rose back in Barcelona, I double-checked the menu with Miguel a few days before to make sure Tita Rose would enjoy. We started off with appetizers of Blini with Smoked Salmon, Sour Cream & Red Caviar washed down with Miguel's bottle of a sauvignon blanc that Tita Amen favors (Tita Rose gave up drinking alcohol a while back). We then moved onto the first red and, eventually, seated ourselves for dinner proper.

The Food


Lumpiang Sotanghon w/ Crab Meat, Minced Prawns Served with Carrot & Singkamas (Jícama) Relish


Chili-Garlic Prawns


Crispy Tadyang ng Baka (Beef Ribs)

We also had some Pinangat (a version of "laing" from my dad's hometown of Daraga, Albay) - which is a packet of young gabi (Taro) leaves stuffed with pork (sometimes shrimp or fish) and simmered in first-press coconut cream with green chilis - and, of course, Garlic Fried Rice.



The Wines



2007 Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Spätlese - I opened this with the Chili-Garlic Prawns in mind, figuring its clean, pure, light-footed, graceful, off-dry, white minerally, slate-touched pear, bit of peach, apricot, quince, bit of kiwi and slight ripe pineapple notes would balance off the dish's spiciness. It was a good call resulting in a good match (if I do say so myself). Eminently drinkable wine this, and it is available at Premium Wine Exchange for around P2400/bottle more or less. This was my last bottle of it, and I'm definitely getting more.

1995 Bodegas Campillo Rioja Gran Reserva - Pretty much consistent with the last couple of bottles I've had, it showed good depth of nicely concentrated, macerated black cherry, bit of kirsch and ripe raspberry with undertones of cedar, sweet tobacco, mildly toasty vanilla/oak, licorice, violets and whispers of cinnamon. Plush and soft, it has a notable heft mid-palate and good push (it somehow reminded me of a red from Ribera del Duero). The tannins are rounded, soft and velvety. Beto opined that this was a wine for food.

1997 Bodegas La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 - Of all the times I've had this wine, this was by far the best bottle. The perfumed scents of balsamico and cedar sweetly permeated the red and dark spice-touched pure, dark cherries, strawberries, raspberries and violets. A firm balancing acidity as a backbone kept things interesting throughout. The poise, structure and balance called Médoc to mind, yet I also had to agree with Beto's comment that its flavors were Burgundian in nature (something the Stockbroker, Doc, Eric and I have, in the past, noted in fine, aged Riojan tintos - particularly the 1976 López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Gran Reserva and the 1974 Contino Reserva).

Remarkable balance, poise, finesse, expressiveness and typicity. I loved this wine. Miguel pointed out it was a wine to sip through the night alone or with some cheese. Luckily, it is now locally available at Premium Wine Exchange at a little under P4000/bottle.



Desserts, brought by Beto & Teresa, were Frozen Brazo de Mercedes and Mango Torte (which I forgot to photograph). Fruits were sampaloc (a local tamarind that Tita Rose likes) and mangosteen.


Chamomile tea for me after - no more espressos for me at night. Alka Seltzer for Miguel.

It was great seeing everyone again, especially Tita Rose and Tita Amen back here in Manila. Very fun evening. Hopefully, we can do this again soon.

Noel, a NWR question. Does much Spanish cultural and linguistic influence remain in the Philippines?

[David M. Bueker]

Lovely stuff as usual Noel.

I own some of the 2006 Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl, but did not purchase the 2007. In 2008 and 2009 it's kabinett, and that's likely the consistent direction. I bet it's not that different in profile from the 2007.

Noel, a NWR question. Does much Spanish cultural and linguistic influence remain in the Philippines?

Yes, Tim, much influence remains.

In our national language, and, indeed, the major provincial dialects, many, many words are of Spanish origin. For example, "cow" in Spanish is "vaca", while, in Tagalog, it is "baka" (there is neither "v" nor "c" in the Tagalog alphabet; but "baka" also means "maybe" - go figure).

There are also Spanish words used in Tagalog that mean different things, for example: "siempre" in Spain is "always", whereas, in Tagalog, it is spelled "siyempre" but means "of course" or "naturally". Another interesting difference is "vacante" which, in Spain, means "vacant" but is used to refer to a position (as in a vacant position in government or a company). In Tagalog, spelled "bakante", it refers to an empty space. One more is "seguro" that, in Spain means "surely" or "for sure". In Tagalog (spelled the same way or "siguro"), it means "maybe".

Culture, well, difficult to say since the American influence has been very strong since the very late 1800s. I believe there is still a good bit of the Spanish influence in our culture these days, but much, much less pronounced than a generation ago. Until a few years after I graduated from college (which was in '87), by law, everyone had to take 2 semesters of learning Spanish in college. Now, college students can pretty much choose what foreign language they want to take up. Of course, our names are still mainly Spanish and the Catholic religion still pretty much dominates.

My father used to like reminding us that his ancestor (on his mother's side, the Monreal side of our family) arrived in the Philippines with the conquistadór, Miguel López de Legazpi, in the mid-1500s. I'd tell him that that ancestor probably was some poor sailor who got tired of swabbing the ship's decks and deserted his boss. He never did find that amusing.

Once, I mentioned to one of my sisters that another ancestor of ours, Damian Ermitaño, was the last gobernadorcillo (petty governor) of what is now Silang in the province of Cavite. She asked me if that meant we were related to a hero of sorts. I replied "no" and told her he was booted out of office when the Americans took over, which meant the fellow was a Spanish collaborator who was used by the Spanish crown to help keep the "indios" in line. She didn't find that amusing either.

. . . . its flavors were Burgundian in nature (something the Stockbroker, Doc, Eric and I have, in the past, noted in fine, aged Riojan tintos . . . . )

This is very interesting, as I recall having had a Rioja Crianza (5 years old at the time) and a Pinot Noir from Monterey (CA) side by side that were remarkably similar. At what age does this Pinot Noir type character appear to set in?

Gotta love the Alka-Seltzer sitting on the table in the last photo!!!

Lovely stuff as usual Noel.

I own some of the 2006 Kreuznacher Krotenpfuhl, but did not purchase the 2007. In 2008 and 2009 it's kabinett, and that's likely the consistent direction. I bet it's not that different in profile from the 2007.

Thanks, David.

Re: the Dönnhoff, well, as I always say, the proof is in the drinking.

This is very interesting, as I recall having had a Rioja Crianza (5 years old at the time) and a Pinot Noir from Monterey (CA) side by side that were remarkably similar. At what age does this Pinot Noir type character appear to set in?

I'd say it would depend on the particular wine, Ryan. I wouldn't be prepared to say all tintos Riojanos will eventually develop pinot noir characteristics.

Gotta love the Alka-Seltzer sitting on the table in the last photo!!!

Heh heh, yeah. I found that pretty amusing myself!

Best to all,

N