I don't agree with much in that article. I'm not convinced after trying a bunch of Aussie Grenache and try to avoid it these days. A lot of it's been overly ripe, hot and quite often pruney and volatile. I notice Bonne cites Clarendon Hills as an example; I've had some of their higher end single vyd Grenaches and have found nothing to like - I enjoy ripeness and alcohol to certain levels (heck, I've been chided for drinking K-B by certain folks
), but those wines are simply grotesque.
If anything I reckon more focus on Aussie Grenache from areas like McLaren/Barossa (where most of the old vine parcels are) will only worsen the association between Australia and massively ripe, purple wines bursting with alcohol. If they want to go the other way in terms of being recognized for the diversity and styles of wine there, I think Cabernet from Western Australia or pretty much anything in the cooler areas of Victoria (Grampians, Mornington, Yarra Valley, Nagambie Lakes) are the things to push.
[ETA: And if they're going to hype anything from the hot areas like Barossa/McLaren, it really ought to be the Mataro/Mourvedre and the blends with plenty of that - those wines seem to retain their structure no matter what, whereas Grenache can just get overly alcoholic and syrupy. I still marvel at the prices that Hewitson Old Garden goes for - when it does turn up on shelves.]
