Excellent (long) lunch at a friend’s yesterday.
While awaiting the arrival of other guests I browsed an Italian cook book and found a recipe that particularly tweaked my interest. It was mushrooms and peaches! I told my friend that I really wanted to try that combination and he said I would – as soon as the others sowed up, as that was the first course he had chosen! Great minds and all that. He chose chanterelles, which I think are an even better match than porcini, as they have a sort of apricotty element themselves. Served on bruschetta, it was a great accompaniment to:
Jacquesson Cuvee 732 Champagne – mostly 2004 fruit, this was a blend of 39% chard, 36% pinot meunier, and 25% pinot noir. It had a great amount of mousse, which only gradually settled down, and a marked apple nose, tons of acidity, fresh and with a slight terminal bitterness that I was undecided about at first, but that I finally came to view as an asset. The wine went very well with the food, which muted the acidity of the wine slightly.
Next course was a pasta dish with tuna and herbs.
2006 Eben Sadie Palladius – this was served blind, and the best I could do was to say that I thought it resembled a Loire wine. As it turns out, that wasn’t far off as the principal grape is indeed Chenin blanc, albeit in tandem with such others as Viognier and Grenache blanc. Light straw colour, showing interesting development in the nose, with slight almond and floral notes, but primarily a waxy citrus that segued to apricot. Good acidity and length. Only 11 barrels made.
Next up was another fish – halibut, coated in ground mushroom and served with blueberry sauce. The fish was just great but we agreed that the blueberry didn’t add anything positive to the mix and I thought that the mushroom on the coating was all looks and no taste addition. I’d like to experiment with adding a little bit of truffle to the powdered mushroom coating.
1990 Lungarotti San Giorgio – a cabernet sangiovese canaiolo blend, this wine is now fully mature. It went through a short period of appearing to be shocked at being opened and summarily decanted, because initially it showed a little Burgundian funk that completely disappeared very quickly, and also an acidity that swiftly abated. When the wine snapped into focus, the mature and now sweet nose was very good, and I thought it reminded me of dark plums. Good flavour intensity, the appearance showing brown at the edges, and a smooth silky finish. This should be drunk over the next couple of years.
1999 Castelgiocondo Brunelleo di Montalcino – excellent sangio nose with fruit and a slight anise component, still some tannin but drinking well now.
1999 Masi Grandarella Appassimento – this is a wine from Veneto that resembles Amarone in the method of production, but instead of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara, it uses Refosco Corvino and Carmenere. I always view it as a bit lighter than an Amarone, and, or so goes my theory, better suited to a luncheon than the big boy, which always makes me think about cheese after dinner in front of the fire. Think of it as Amarone Light (there are a number of other wines of similar weight like Campofiorin available) Dark with a warm ripe nose of leather and red fruit and spice, slightly pruny or dried fruit in character, excellent concentration and good long finish. Perfect cheese companion.
And a wonderful 4 ½ hour lunch!