WTN: 97 Beaune & Côte Rôtie, 02 Lorenzhöfer, Fèlsina, etc.

Lorenzhöfer Riesling Spätlese 2002 – Weingut Karlsmülhe – Alc. 8.5% was a nice but not magical example from the Ruwer showing marked sweetness on entry balanced by minerality and juicy acidity towards the finish. I would have preferred greater crispness with the balance more in favour of the acidity; 15.5/20++.

In most of my experience 1997 is an underrated year for Burgundy and Northern Rhône giving elegance and charming wines from an early age (a bad exception was a couple of mean and expensive bottles of Griottes-Chambertin from Ponsot). So to accompany pigeon, I opened one from each area. Beaune Boucherottes 1997 – Louis Jadot (domaine) – Alc. 13.5% - was indeed elegant and charming with medium body nice Pinot fruit (touches of cherry) and appealing acidity; 16/20. However, Côte Rôtie 1997 – Jamet – Alc. 13% - easily overtrumped it; it was deeper, more generous, longer and showed more complex flavours of sour cherry, ivy and a hint of leather and just as elegant and stylish; 17/20++.

There were two Chiantis to accompany osso bucco. Chianti Classico 2005 – Fèlsina Beradenga – Alc. 13% - was its usual forward self (for Fèlsina) showing nice red fruit, medium/full body, tangy acidity and robust structure; 16/20. There was a strong family resemblance in Chianti Classico Riserva 2001 – Fèlsina Beradenga – Alc. 13.5% - but I did not find that showed as big a plus as I was expecting; my first impressions were of less robustness but greater stylishness, softer mouth-feel and perhaps slightly greater length. However, with Germaine declaring that she detected a rottenness, my simple enjoyment was shattered and I tried to search for what she was complaining about; all I could find was a hint on the finish of coming oxidation which I might not have noticed without her remark; so, good but not up to my recent bottle of the basic CC 01 from Fontodi; 16/20.

Last autumn I wrote a TN complaining about raw drying tannins on the finish of Rully “En Guesnes” 2004 – Vincent Dureuil-Janthial(R) – Alc. 13% - and asked rhetorically why I had bought it. Well the answer is that the bottle originally tasted must have been like this last one; not unlike the Jadot Boucherottes 97 showing medium/light bodied with lively acidity and Pinot fruit (mainly sour cherry) on entry and mid-palate and an elegant finish without a trace of drying tannins; 15.5/20++.

Rully 1er cru La Pucelle 1999 – H et P Jacqueson(W) – Alc 13%. A few months ago I complained that this wine’s Grésigny 99 stable-mate was drying out but this Pucelle (means “virgin”) was much fresher, indeed delightful. Medium weight, nutty, mineral with still fresh acidity, residual white fruit and quite caressing mouth-feel; 16/20+++.

I used to pride myself on instant recognition of Saumur-Champigny from René-Noël Legrand for its vigorous combination of red fruit, minerals, clay and firm tannins but La Chaintrée 2005 would have fooled me and I would have guessed Hureau or Roches Neuves; is this a function of the vintage or of a deliberate change in style? With its medium/full body, nice round fruit and quite soft mouth-feel and enough ripe tannins for palate support, it was more accessible young and would probably be more widely popular than most from Legrand but I somehow feel that it is short on identity; 15.5/20+.

Fèlsina Beradenga......sounds ready Tim?

Will in-house PO enable some replenishment now there is room in cellar?

Bob

Bob, Fèlsina Beradenga is usually a tough customer and needs some time, even the basic CC. 2005 has always been a bit of an exception in my view, being quite forward. The 2001 Riserva is an odd case; I remember enjoying it greatly at a restaurant in Tuscany in 2006, I think. However, if I am right about having perceived an oxidative precursor on the finish after Germaine declared rottenness, it may not last much longer. I am confident that Rancia and Fontalloro 01 will prove much more robust. I should take a look at the basic 01 CC, though.

IS the CCR readily available there? I thought in past that I had heard that the CCR (non-Rancia) was a US only bottling/

IS the CCR readily available there? I thought in past that I had heard that the CCR (non-Rancia) was a US only bottling/

The small merchant from whom I buy always has it and I have seen it on sale in Italy as well.

I used to pride myself on instant recognition of Saumur-Champigny from René-Noël Legrand for its vigorous combination of red fruit, minerals, clay and firm tannins but La Chaintrée 2005 would have fooled me and I would have guessed Hureau or Roches Neuves; is this a function of the vintage or of a deliberate change in style? With its medium/full body, nice round fruit and quite soft mouth-feel and enough ripe tannins for palate support, it was more accessible young and would probably be more widely popular than most from Legrand but I somehow feel that it is short on identity; 15.5/20+.

I finished off the last of my Clos Rougeard Les Poyeux 2001 from Saumur-Champigny on Saturday night with a beef roast. Sadly I have yet to try any other wines from Saumur Champigny but the few I have had of this wine have been superb. My final bottle appears to fit into your description of nice round fruit with a soft mouth feel and uber soft tannins. In fact I wonder how much longer it would last given the fruit does seem to have lost a little oomph in the last couple of years. Nevertheless the wine still has delectable raspberry and blackberry fruit. I suppose the question for me is how long do people expect these wines to last? Is 8-9 around their optimum window?

Mark

Mark, the more ambitious cuvées of Saumur-Champigny can be quite long lived. 2001 is not the best year for red Loire but I would be surprised if Les Poyeux were afraid of 10-15 years; the 1996 needs more time for full expression IMHO. I have had a lot of vintages from René-Noël Legrand in my cellar and they age very well. His 1982 is now over the top but some bottles are still enjoyable in a distinguished old wine way. I had a good 1985 recently and about 4-5 years ago his 1989 VV was superb; I should take a look at another bottle to see if they are still holding up. By coincidence I opened a bottle of his S-C Terrages 97 last night and it was still full and vigorous.

TIm

How do you rate the René-Noël Legrand compared to the Clos Rougeard. I am still new to the area and really enjoyed my first exposure being the Les Poyeux. As a separate issue, I seem to recall reading the 07 vintage was worth tracking down. Am I correct?

Mark

Mark,

Rougeard is a well known estate and his wines are quite sophisticated and (good) Bordeaux-like. By contrast, Legrand's wines are hard to find outside France and are vivid expressions of the terroir and a bit rustic when young but acquiring distinction with age. His wines are very cheap at the estate - approx. €6-7 for the entry level cuvées and €14-15 for the top one which was unfortunately and uncharacteristically over-oaked in 2005; I live in hope the the wood will integrate with age.

Mark,

Re 2007, it is better for whites than for reds which can be a bit lean. 2008 is good for both and 2009 a rich year which for my palate may spoil the dry whites to some extent.