WTN: 2003 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati

No one at dinner knew what to make of this. We ordered a Dolcetto and got a modern ultra-ripe wine. This wine, 7 years into its life, tasted like a new syrah, a thick one at that. It's not that it's poorly made, its not that we did not take the 03 vintage into account, its not that we do not like stylistic variations from the wine maker, its that this thing has no typicity in it at all. I was expecting and actually wanted a thinner, more astringent, higher acidity wine that night with the food. I would never have remotely guessed that it was a Dolcetto.

Michael
FWIW I remain unconvinced about the concept of 'super-Dolcetto'. Yes they can make it bigger, but I've yet to see that accompanied by greater complexity (as Barbera can do). As an aside, I recall tasting Dolcetto grapes at the end of a decent walk, and them being very refreshing - perhaps where I see the target for the wines.
regards
Ian

Michael
FWIW I remain unconvinced about the concept of 'super-Dolcetto'. Yes they can make it bigger, but I've yet to see that accompanied by greater complexity (as Barbera can do). As an aside, I recall tasting Dolcetto grapes at the end of a decent walk, and them being very refreshing - perhaps where I see the target for the wines.
regards
Ian

Giacomo Conterno used to make an incredible Dolcetto d'Alba that has apparently been discontinued. Though not Monfortino Barolo, it was made very much in a riper G.Conterno style with some grip. Luciano Sandrone currently makes my favorite 'serious' Dolcetto. I think of them as the Cru Beaujolais version.

Cheers,
Bill

Ian, you are right. I've had many Bigger Barbera's and I've enjoyed those but this was different for me.

Bill, Many thanks for the heads up on the Sandrone. I'll look to try that and report back.

Bill
I like the analogy with Cru Beaujolais as a useful target, in contrast perhaps to the Shiraz Reserve approach that Michael fairly suggested has been the route for many seeking a more prestige Dolcetto.
regards
Ian

No one at dinner knew what to make of this. We ordered a Dolcetto and got a modern ultra-ripe wine. This wine, 7 years into its life, tasted like a new syrah, a thick one at that. It's not that it's poorly made, its not that we did not take the 03 vintage into account, its not that we do not like stylistic variations from the wine maker, its that this thing has no typicity in it at all. I was expecting and actually wanted a thinner, more astringent, higher acidity wine that night with the food. I would never have remotely guessed that it was a Dolcetto.

I've not tasted the 2003, and I suspect that that vintage makes a difference, but I've liked the vintages I've had. certainly there is ripeness and concentration and "seriousness" that one might not expect in a Dolcetto, but I think this is fruit and not manipulation.

My tasting notes below are from 2 vintages, and as you can see, the 1998 needed some time to tame --see my note from 11/00 two years after the vintage as my reaction sounds a little like yours. Note that the 2001 note is on the regular dolcetto, more like what you might expect from Dolcetto.

Charles

• 1998 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (9/18/2009)
  A dolcetto 11 years on! No exuberant fruit but still vibrant color, good balance, and nice match with roast duck.
• 2004 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (3/14/2009)
  Forward fruit has toned down a bit, but still plenty of deep dark fruit, excellent balance, structure to stand up to filet mignon in Chianti sauce and roast duck. Probably drinking at its best now.
• 2004 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (6/24/2007)
  Dark purple, ebullient deep fruit. A little medicinal when first opened. Quite a Dolcetto!
• 2004 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (1/15/2007)
  Very deep purple and very deep flavor. An excellent Dolcetto, ready to enjoy but no hurry.
• 1998 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (7/1/2001)
  7/01 Young red burgundy color. Strawberry and earth nose. Palate combined forward and fun red fruits with weight and earthiness. Excellent match with Victor Hazan's tomato, basil and mozzarella salad served on bruschetta.
• 1998 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (11/1/2000)
  11/00 AT KING FUNG OFFLINE. VERY TANNIC, NOT DOLCETTO-LIKE. NEEDS TIME AND MAYBE STEAK!

Posted from CellarTracker

Don’t let the name Dolcetto (the “ little sweet one”) fool you.

Salute

No one at... a Dolcetto.

I've not tasted the 2003, and I suspect that that vintage makes a difference, but I've liked the vintages I've had. certainly there is ripeness and concentration and "seriousness" that one might not expect in a Dolcetto, but I think this is fruit and not manipulation.

My tasting notes below are from 2 vintages, and as you can see, the 1998 needed some time to tame --see my note from 11/00 two years after the vintage as my reaction sounds a little like yours. Note that the 2001 note is on the regular dolcetto, more like what you might expect from Dolcetto.

Charles

• 1998 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (9/18/2009)
  A dolcetto 11 years on! No exuberant fruit but still vibrant color, good balance, and nice match with roast duck.
• 2004 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (3/14/2009)
  Forward fruit has toned down a bit, but still plenty of deep dark fruit, excellent balance, structure to stand up to filet mignon in Chianti sauce and roast duck. Probably drinking at its best now.
• 2004 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (6/24/2007)
  Dark purple, ebullient deep fruit. A little medicinal when first opened. Quite a Dolcetto!
• 2004 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (1/15/2007)
  Very deep purple and very deep flavor. An excellent Dolcetto, ready to enjoy but no hurry.
• 1998 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (7/1/2001)
  7/01 Young red burgundy color. Strawberry and earth nose. Palate combined forward and fun red fruits with weight and earthiness. Excellent match with Victor Hazan's tomato, basil and mozzarella salad served on bruschetta.
• 1998 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba Coste & Fossati - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Dolcetto d'Alba (11/1/2000)
  11/00 AT KING FUNG OFFLINE. VERY TANNIC, NOT DOLCETTO-LIKE. NEEDS TIME AND MAYBE STEAK!

Posted from CellarTracker

charles,

Many thanks for that. I've not had many experiences with this wine so your experience provides some perspective.

Many thanks
Mike

Good Dolcetto is usually somewhat tannic (if normally relatively low in acidity), and Coste & Fossati is a very famous vineyard. It produces inky-black blockbusters in normal vintages.

Atypical notes could be provided by the fact that the wine was from an odd, hot vintage, and more mature than ideal, particularly for that vintage. Local customs are not always right but I have never seen Dolcetto aged by restaurants in the Langhe.

Don’t let the name Dolcetto (the “ little sweet one”) fool you.

Salute

Exactly. They tell me it refers to the grapes when ripe, not the wine.