by Chris Kissack » Fri Jul 30, 2010 1:02 am
Two 2002 Germans recently enjoyed:
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2002: A fine but well-coloured pale-golden hue. The nose is intense, packed with minerally lime, tinged with fruit complexity, elements of mango and maybe even passion fruit. Lovely purity to it, but also very evocative and open. A wonderful weight and texture on the palate, intense creamy fruit richness, backed up by prickling acidity and wonderful minerality. There is great depth of character here, this delicious wine possessing hints of white pepper, acacia, sherbet and more. Superb vigour, and a really nicely lifted finish, full of the interplay between fruit, texture and minerally acidity. This is very fine indeed; the best showing yet from this wine. 17.5+/20 AP number: 23 561 077 22 03
Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2002: A shimmering yellow-green hue, and a wonderfully evocative nose, rich in aromas of sherbet, tangerine peel, lime zest all backed up by a light, green minerality. The palate doesn't disappoint; it still has that deliciously fleshy, rich, Nahe mouthfeel, but with great depth and more vivacity than I noted on my last tasting. It also has fine complexity, the intense fruit sweetness overlaid with an explosive layer of slate-stone minerality and candied citrus fruits. Impressively textured, with hints of barley water substance. Such vigour and poise, and yet such fine, sherbetty length. Brilliant wine which I under-rated a little last time I am certain. 18+/20 AP number: 7 753 010 05 03