J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2007
I realize for many of the Riesling combat veterans hereabouts that his will be alter hut but sweet mother loving monkey this wine was atomic fueled. Now being a good little book reading tyro I've noted that the Prum wines are frequently pointed to as benchmarks of quality for German wine though the prices are in the "not cheap at all" category. My wine drinking partner and crime I both decided to stump for a couple of bottles. He picked up the above referenced Kabinett and I got the Spätlese version. Kind of like the initial release and then the Criterion Collection (Aulese being the boxed set)?
In any case we finally got around to seeing what all the hoopla was about, to see if this rep was deserved. I am here to tell you I was blown right off my seat. I had assumed that the Kabinett version would be this thin little whisper of of a wine with nice zinging acidty and gossamer strands that hinted at exotic fruits. Unexpected was the full power chord room enveloping taste that only just faded after nearly two weeks. I finally had to call a taxi and send it home, tie askew.
This trickster starts in the glass a seemingly innocent golden yellow, a whiff of Riesling fruit, and then a ever increasing note of topical-ish..er...ness. Unlike many wines where there seems to be a very complex range tastes that cross plants, animals and ancient furniture, this, for me anyway, had a very pure note. Sure the note rose and fell, dipped, wavered, came back strong, wavered with a bit more vibrato, and then set the controls for the heart of the sun. I know I'm supposed to mention apricot/mango/etc. and the amalgam of fruit flavor was there, though as one hybrid fruit. The minerality of the Prum was more ghosts of stone, not quite as pronounced as some other Mosels I've had, though it is certainly there intertwined with the sharply oscillating acidity. Length? This wine shops at Big & Tall.
Unfortunately this is the first wine I've come across where the price tag seems absolutely deserved. As soon as I can afford a parachute and helmet the Spätlese will get opened.
Don't know why but this wine made me think of this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUVt6MqrWgk