Last night we visited an art and wine collector who invited a group of friends over to see his prizes. He generously opened a pair of noble savages from Rousseau.
1998 Joseph Drouhin (Marquis de Laguiche) Montrachet 13.5%
As the most oenologically unhinged person present, all eyes are on me as I assess for premox. Alas, it was thusly so. The host anxiously asked "but is it still drinkable?" Ever the gentleman, I say "yes," while kicking my internalized mother (the backup was a 90s Comte Lafon Meursault). Well, it wasn’t so oxidized that it couldn’t be appreciated for its class. White flowers and pine resin aromas, lovely texture and unctuosity, combining lightness with richness as only aristo white burgs can. All under wraps. Sigh.
2005 Jacques Prieur Beaune Champs Pimont 13.0%
Sour cherry and iron/iodine aromas. Salty, good texture, unobtrusive oak, civilized alcohol, good acid/sweet balance, but become acidic in the finish as the acid outruns the fruit. May be closing down.
1998 Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 13.0%
Murky color. To those familiar with the armpit of a skunk in heat, this didn't smell like that. But it was very bretty, and the yeasty critters never conceded the ground beneath defeat. Clearly present under the funk was some seriously regal cherry. While the flaw irredeemably compromised the nose, the mouth texture was silky and sumptuous, smooth like fine gloves, with exquisite acid/sweet balance and the ideal bitter finish. Could have been a contender.
1999 Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 13.0%
Clear color. Tight nose of cherry, leather and light funk. Also silky smooth, with a pleasant bitter finish and excellent acid/sweet balance. Superb ossature and tonus, should evolve into quite a smeller, but is presently a bit ungiving. While it did not show itself categorically superior to what the Clos St. Jacques should have been, by virtue of being uncompromised it beat it by a nose.
All in all, a frustrating experience, none of the wines having been caught in their ideal places, either too young or compromised by faulty structural of packaging issues.
