Chablis Cuvée Tête d’Or 2002 – Domaine Billaud-Simon – Alc.12%. There was a recent thread somewhere where most of posts agreed that village Chablis does not benefit from more than a handful of years ageing. Well this one was manifestly an exception. Colour was still quite pale straw but the nose was expressive and complex with notes of white fruit and minerals. Body was light /medium showing lively acidity with fleshy undertones, hints of dry honey and abundant flinty minerals; an elegant and lovely Chablis; 8 years ageing have certainly added something here; 16.5/20+++.
Saint-Joseph Clos de Cuminaille 1999 – Pierre Gaillard – Alc. 12.5% - was a lovely St. Joseph showing good structure, the usual Northern Rhône sour cherry but rounder and deeper with fuller body and a less metallic streak than in a lot of vintages; 16.5/20+++.
Château Poujeaux cru bourgeois Moulis-en-Médoc 2001 – Alc. 12.5%. On her first sip, Germaine exclaimed “there’s something wrong with this wine; it’s bitter”. That was not at all my first impression but I could not help myself thereafter looking for tannins. Rather, it seemed to me a less robust but more elegant Poujeaux than usual showing subdued aromas, medium body, bright red fruit and minerals with juicy acidity and, here we come, some perfectly acceptable firm tannins supporting the finish. It is true that these obtruded more after a mouthful of creamy broad beans than after the beef and with hindsight those beans were not an ideal pairing. Not my finest Poujeaux ever but I guess that there is still some improvement potential; 15.5/20+++.
Mâcon-Lugny Terroir de Bissy “Les Crays vers Vaux” Vieilles Vignes 2007 – Rijckaert – Alc. 13% - (€15) showed refreshing aromas of flowers and stony minerals, medium/light body with well focussed white fruit, squeezes of citrus, minerals, a dab of cream, lively/crisp acidity, decent length and backbone with a saline touch. My last but best bottle; 16/20+.