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WTN - 5 extraordinary wines from May, featuring H-Brion 1990

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Ryan M

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WTN - 5 extraordinary wines from May, featuring H-Brion 1990

by Ryan M » Wed Jul 21, 2010 9:44 pm

Shame on me for not posting on these remarkable wines sooner. May brought me a wonderful vintage Champagne, the two best Bordeaux reds I've had the pleasure to taste, a fine old school Cali Cab, and an incredible surprise from Indiana.

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Brut, Vintage Reserve ("Gold Label"), Champagne 2002
Wondeful, rich, elegant nose of green apple, citrus, apricot, toast, and cashew; great depth; love the nose!!! Palate of green apple, apricot, honey, blood orange, and nuts. Wonderful depth, elegance, and beauty. Full bodied with some toasty power. Only downside is that the bubbles are not as persistent as one would like, but that might have been due in part to the too warm serving temperature. Lovely, lovely Champagne. Can probably go another 10 years, possibly as much as 15. Exceptional / Extraordinary (92 - 94). [5/13/10]

Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac 2003
Decanted for over an hour. Dark, warm ruby; impressive color. Great nose!!! Black cherry, blackberry, juicy red currant, cassis, some floral notes, and a touch of citrus, with tobacco, a hint of pencil lead, mineral, roasted herbs, roasted meat, and espresso. Ripe, but not overly so, and there is a LOT of tannin hiding underneath. Has 2003 warmth, but with the tannin, density, and acidity to balance it. This is a wine you need to swirl in your mouth to perceive how well constituted it is under the ripe fruit. Approachable now and very pleasurable to drink, but will only get better, and I dare say it will achieve a more classical Bordeaux balance in its maturity. Has up to 20 years ahead of it; when will it hit its peak? Not sure - perhaps in 10 years. A lot of potential here. Extraordinary (93 - 95). [5/13/10]

Jordan, Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley 1978
Medium ruby/garnet. Nose of glycerin, black cherry, tobacco, and earth (almost barnyardish). On the palate, black cherry, currant, and citrus rind, with chocolate, earth, mint, chalky tannins, and dark, somewhat tarry notes. Somewhat like a Amarone. Darker and richer but less aromatic than a previous bottle tasted 4 months before, but consistent overall. Drink now or in the next few years. Lovely old school Cabernet. Excellent / Exceptional (89 - 91). [5/22/10]

Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan 1990
My first Haut-Brion, and the first time I've had the pleasure to taste a 1st Growth in its prime. Medium-dark ruby, going to garnet/pink at the rim; great color for a 20 year old! Initially a bit muted aromatically, it took three hours in the decanter to hit its peak, and when it did it was glorious: Tremendous, deep nose of black fruit, tobacco, orange rind, rosemary/sweet herbs, and glycerin; a truly awesome nose. On the palate, black cherry, blackberry, currant, orange rind, tobacco, sweet and earthy herbs, perhaps some chocolate, and very generous, almost barnyardish earthiness. Dense and very ripe for Pessac (the vintage character frames this wine). Wonderful, transcendant wine. The nose was still potent in the empty bottle the next day; and even a day later in the rinsed out bottle the nose was still present - amazing. That nose is one for the ages. The greatest red Bordeaux I have ever tasted, and the greatest dry red I've ever tasted. A monumental experience. Just now reaching its prime, with 20 - 30 years to go. Increadible (97 - 99). [5/22/10]

Huber Winery, Heritage, Indiana 2001
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Chambourcin. Dark, almost opaque garnet, going to brown-orange at the rim. Lovely, mature nose of dark fruit and earthy aromatics. Blackberry, red plum, black currant, roses, leathery earthiness, a hint of vanilla, and a pleasant hint of green pepper. As it opens, a light touch of citrus rind, and smokey stone notes - Indiana limestone (confirmed against a hunk of stone from my yard)!!! Mature and showing glycerin, but still surprisingly youthful when first poured. Medium-full bodied, and obviously saw some oak. Its character, like a combination of Washington, Australia, and Graves. At its zenith, but can go on for another 3 years or so. Tremendous quality and character; in fact this would hold its own against a classed-growth Bordeaux. This may be Indiana's premier wine (and notes I've seen for other vintages indicate its no fluke), and if the state can produce just one wine like this, then the rest of the country needs to be paying attention! Exceptional (90 - 93). [6/1/10]
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Re: WTN - 5 extraordinary wines from May, featuring H-Brion 1990

by Jenise » Fri Jul 23, 2010 12:29 pm

Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan 1990
My first Haut-Brion, and the first time I've had the pleasure to taste a 1st Growth in its prime.

Lifechanging, isn't it, when you're developing a Bordeaux palate and finally get to that threshhold moment. Welcome to the club!
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN - 5 extraordinary wines from May, featuring H-Brion 1990

by James Roscoe » Fri Jul 23, 2010 7:01 pm

Jenise wrote:
Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan 1990
My first Haut-Brion, and the first time I've had the pleasure to taste a 1st Growth in its prime.

Lifechanging, isn't it, when you're developing a Bordeaux palate and finally get to that threshhold moment. Welcome to the club!

Watch out. Now you will need a fix. Fortunately there are plenty of classified growths out there that will provide the same high. Great stuff!
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The answer is blowin' in the wind.
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Re: WTN - 5 extraordinary wines from May, featuring H-Brion 1990

by Jim Vandegriff » Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:49 pm

While I've never had the pleasure of a mature Haut Brion I really appreciated your note. I have had the pleasure of a wine called Le Chai Neuf which is from the young vines at Haut Brion, and which was the best Bordeaux I have ever tried. Such a great terroir! Thanks for the note. Jim
in Trinidad, CA, by the sea

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